Under the hill of Gradec, behind a plain archway on Mesnička street, runs one of Zagreb’s most unexpected public spaces. The Grič Tunnel was planned in 1943 as an air-raid shelter for the city’s residents, at a time when Allied bombing began to threaten the region, and it was finished around the end of the war. A long, straight corridor of roughly 350 metres connects the Upper Town side with the Lower Town, and a wider central hall opens off it. For decades the tunnel was forgotten or closed, and locals later used its passages again as shelters during the 1990s Homeland War. It was reopened to the public as a walkway and cultural space, and old wartime signs on the walls have been restored, giving the place a faintly eerie atmosphere. Today you can simply walk through it, using it as a shortcut that is level, lit and cool, or linger to read the inscriptions and notices. The tunnel has hosted fashion shows, installations and an Advent programme, so what you find inside changes from visit to visit. It is free to enter and rarely crowded, which makes it one of the best quick stops in the old town.
Where to find it
The main entrance is on Mesnička street, close to the Upper Town’s main shopping and café area, and another opens on Tomićeva street, near the funicular and the Art Park. A branch also reaches the Ilica side of the Lower Town, so the tunnel works as a genuine link between the two halves of the city. Opening is generally daily from morning to evening, but access can be restricted when an event is under way, so treat it as a flexible stop rather than a fixed appointment.
What you will see
The walls are bare concrete and painted in places, with restored period signs pointing to shelter areas. The central hall is the part most often used for exhibitions and cultural events. Expect low light, a steady cool temperature and a quiet atmosphere. Only one entrance is step-free, so check the access point if you use a wheelchair or a pushchair. There is no museum or formal visitor centre, and no ticket desk, so the experience is self-guided.
Making the most of it
The easiest way to include the tunnel is to walk it as you cross from Ilica to the Upper Town, then continue to the funicular and St Mark’s Square. For the history behind it, join a guided walk that includes the tunnel, such as the Communism and Homeland War tour. Bring a light layer in summer, and be mindful that this is a place with a painful past rather than a theme-park attraction. Photography is welcome, but keep voices low if a group is listening to a guide.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided walk through a 350-metre tunnel, with restored wartime signs, a central hall for events and no admission charge.
Best time
A hot summer afternoon, when the cool air is welcome, or a wet day when you want a dry route under the hill.
How long
Twenty to thirty minutes, longer if an exhibition is on.
Tips
Use the Mesnička or Tomićeva entrance, wear a light layer and check for closures on event days.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Curious travellers who like unusual, free places with a real story behind them.
- Families
- Older children enjoy the underground feel; keep an eye on little ones in the dim light.
- Couples
- A quiet, atmospheric shortcut between the Upper Town and the Lower Town cafés.
- Pair with
- The funicular, St Mark’s Square and the Museum of Broken Relationships.
- Time needed
- Half an hour.
Good questions
Is the Grič Tunnel free?+
Yes, it is open to the public and entry is free. There is no ticket desk, and you walk through on your own.
Why was the Grič Tunnel built?+
It was planned in 1943 as a bomb shelter for residents during the Second World War, and it was used as a shelter again in the 1990s.
Where are the entrances?+
The main entrance is on Mesnička street and another is on Tomićeva street near the funicular. Other branches open towards Ilica and Radićeva.
How long is the tunnel?+
The main corridor is about 350 metres long, so a straight walk takes only a few minutes. Allow longer to read the signs and see any exhibition.
Is the tunnel accessible?+
Only one entrance is step-free, so check before you go if you use a wheelchair or pushchair. The floor itself is flat.
