Banos is a town of travellers, and its food reflects that: cheap, filling meals for hungry adventurers, a few good restaurants for celebrations and a handful of local specialities that make eating here a pleasure. This guide covers what to look for and how to eat well.
Melcocha
The town's signature sweet is melcocha, a taffy made from sugar cane that is boiled, stretched and pulled until it turns golden and chewy. You will see it being pulled on hooks outside shops near the centre. It is sold in strips or twisted shapes, sometimes flavoured with fruit or coconut. Buy a small piece to try, then decide whether you want a bag.
Canelazo
On cool evenings, a canelazo is the drink of choice: hot water infused with cinnamon and sugar cane juice, often spiked with aguardiente. Stalls near the baths and squares serve it in plastic cups, and it is a warming end to a soak. Non-alcoholic versions are available.
Trout and river fish
Trout from highland farms is common in the region, usually grilled or fried and served with rice, salad and potatoes. It is simple, fresh and inexpensive. Look for it at family restaurants and lunch spots on the road to the waterfalls.
Almuerzo and set meals
Many restaurants offer an almuerzo, a set lunch with soup, a main dish of meat or chicken with rice and sides, and a juice, at a modest price. This is the best value in town, and the soups are often excellent. Evening equivalents, called meriendas, are also available.
Ecuadorian classics
Try locro de papa, a creamy potato and cheese soup, llapingachos, griddled potato cakes with cheese, and fritada, fried pork with hominy. Seafood dishes such as ceviche appear on menus, though the coast is far away. Fresh fruit juices, from tree tomato to blackberry, are inexpensive and delicious.
Cuy
Guinea pig is a traditional highland dish, roasted whole and served on special occasions. Some restaurants in the region offer it, and curious visitors may like to try it once. It is not essential to enjoy the town.
Markets
The central market sells fruit, snacks and cooked meals, and is a good place to taste local flavours cheaply. Go in the morning for the best selection, and keep valuables close.
Cafes and bakeries
Banos has plenty of cafes serving coffee, pancakes and baked goods, catering to international visitors. Ecuadorian coffee can be excellent, so ask for local beans. Bakeries sell fresh bread and pastries for early starts.
International options
Pizza, burgers, Mexican food and vegetarian dishes are widespread, and some restaurants cater to specific diets. Ask in advance if you have allergies or restrictions.
Eating on a budget
Fill up at lunchtime with an almuerzo, snack on market fruit and choose simple dinners. Avoid restaurants that aggressively tout on the street, and compare menus. Street stalls are popular, but choose those with a busy crowd.
Water and hygiene
Drink bottled or purified water, and avoid ice if unsure. Wash fruit or choose peeled options. Most visitors eat well without trouble.
Evening drinks
Bars along the main streets offer cocktails, beer and live music. The atmosphere is lively but relaxed. Many close early on weeknights. A canelazo or a local craft beer is a good way to end the day.
Final tip
Eat what the locals eat, and be curious. A meal that costs little can be the highlight of a day in Banos.
Sample day of eating
Start with a breakfast of eggs, bread, fruit and strong coffee, perhaps with a fresh juice. Snack on a piece of fruit or a cheese empanada mid-morning. Take a proper almuerzo around one, with soup and a main dish, then enjoy a light dinner after your evening soak. Finish with a canelazo or a piece of melcocha as a treat.
Dietary needs
Vegetarians can find eggs, cheese, beans, vegetables and rice in most places, and some restaurants have dedicated meat-free menus. If you are vegan or have allergies, learn a few Spanish phrases and ask clearly. Gluten is less of an issue with rice and potato dishes, but check sauces and fried items. With a little care, you can eat well whatever your diet.
Etiquette and tipping
Menus often list prices that include tax, and a small tip is appreciated for good service. In casual places, leaving small change is enough. Meals are often relaxed and unhurried, so ask for the bill when you are ready. Greeting staff with a friendly buenas goes a long way, and learning a few Spanish words will earn smiles and sometimes extra helpings.
