Cedars of God

High in the northern mountains, the Cedars of God is a grove of ancient cedar trees, some believed to be thousands of years old, standing at an altitude of nearly two thousand metres. The cedar is the national symbol of Lebanon, and these survivors of vast forests that once covered the mountains are protected within a World Heritage landscape. Below the grove, the Qadisha Valley, whose name means holy, plunges into a steep gorge where Christian hermits and monks sought refuge for centuries. Monasteries and chapels cling to the cliffs, caves hide frescoes, and trails thread between villages and terraces. The nearby town of Bcharre, perched at the head of the valley, is the birthplace of Kahlil Gibran, the poet and painter best known for The Prophet. A museum in a former hermitage displays his paintings and manuscripts, and the poet is buried there. Together, forest, valley and town make a day that combines nature, culture and spirituality.

The tour linked from this page is a day trip from Beirut to Bcharre, the Qadisha Valley and the cedar forest. The drive takes about two to three hours each way, so it is a long day, and the road climbs through scenic mountain villages. Typical stops include a viewpoint over the gorge, the Gibran museum, a walk among the cedars and lunch in a local restaurant. Some itineraries add the Monastery of Saint Anthony in Kozhaya.

Weather is a big factor. Snow can close the high road in winter, when the area becomes a ski destination, and spring and early summer bring green slopes and waterfalls. Summer is cooler than the coast, and autumn colour is lovely. Always check road conditions in the cold months. Wear layers and sturdy shoes. If you want to hike, the valley has trails of varying difficulty, and specialised tours exist for walkers.

The cedars are fragile, and visitors are asked to stay on paths and avoid touching or carving the trees. A small shop sells souvenirs carved from fallen wood, with proceeds going to conservation. Allow about an hour at the grove. As with other regional trips, check current travel advice and confirm with the operator that the route is operating.

For nature and history lovers, this is one of the most rewarding journeys in Lebanon, giving a sense of the country's mountain heart. Families, older travellers and photographers will all find something to enjoy, provided they are happy with a long drive. Take a camera, bring a picnic or try local trout and mountain mezze, and give yourself time to simply sit among the trees.

A short stop at a local restaurant on the way down is a good way to try mountain dishes such as kibbeh, grilled meat and fresh trout. Early starts give you more time at the grove and avoid the afternoon mist that sometimes rolls in on the heights, so choose a tour with a morning departure.