Bergen has traded in fish for centuries, and the food scene still starts with the sea. Cod, salmon, shellfish and herring arrive daily at a harbour that has been feeding the city since the Hanseatic merchants set up their warehouses, and the result is a city where you can eat very well if you know where to look and how to manage the cost. Norway is expensive, and Bergen is no exception, so this guide is as much about spending wisely as it is about what to order.
The Fish Market and Mathallen
The Fish Market at Torget is the natural first stop. In summer the open-air stalls line the quay with fresh and smoked salmon, shrimp, crab and king crab, cured fish and local farm produce. In winter the outdoor market is mostly closed, and the action moves inside to Mathallen, the covered food hall that opened in 2012 and stays open all year, generally from morning until late evening, with individual counters setting their own hours. Go at lunch, walk the aisles first and then decide. A shared tasting lunch from several counters is usually better value than one large main course.
What to order
The classic is fish soup, a creamy broth with chunks of white fish and vegetables, served with bread. Smoked or cured salmon on an open sandwich is the other staple, and fish cakes are a cheap, filling alternative. Shellfish, from prawns to crab and king crab, is sold by weight and is a treat rather than an everyday meal. Stockfish, the air-dried cod that made the Hanseatic merchants rich, appears in traditional dishes and in the story of the city itself, and the Hanseatic Museum explains how it was traded. Ask the vendor what is freshest that day and be ready to share.
Sweet things
Bergen is known for its cinnamon buns, the skillingsboller, often spiral-shaped and sold fresh from the oven in bakeries across the city. Waffles with sour cream and jam, and brown cheese (brunost), the sweet caramel-coloured cheese that Norwegians slice thinly onto bread and waffles, are the other everyday treats. A coffee and a bun is a cheap and delicious way to spend a wet afternoon, and Norwegians drink a lot of coffee, so cafes are everywhere.
Drinks and the rules
Alcohol is expensive in Norway. Beer and cider up to a modest strength are sold in supermarkets during restricted hours, and wine and spirits are sold only in the state-run Vinmonopolet shops, which close early and on Sundays. If you want to drink with dinner, expect to pay for it, and consider having a drink in the hotel bar or buying a bottle in advance. Bergen has a brewing tradition of its own, and the Hardanger region produces cider from its orchards, which many day tours include as a tasting. Tap water is excellent, and restaurants will serve it for free.
Saving money
Make lunch your main meal, because many cafes and restaurants offer cheaper lunch dishes than dinner. Choose a hotel with breakfast included, such as Opus XVI, Clarion Hotel Admiral, Thon Hotel Rosenkrantz or Zander K, and fill up. Citybox Bergen City has a shared guest kitchen, and supermarkets in the centre sell bread, cheese, smoked fish and ready meals for picnics. Tipping is not expected in Norway, because service is included, although rounding up for good service is welcome.
Dietary needs and etiquette
Menus in Bergen are used to visitors, and most restaurants cope well with vegetarian, gluten-free and allergy requests if you ask when you book or order. Fish and seafood dominate the traditional menu, so vegetarians may find fewer local specialities, but cafes, bakeries and the hotel breakfast buffets are reliable. Meals tend to start earlier than in southern Europe, with dinner often served from around five or six in the evening, so book a table if you want a later or busier slot, and remember that kitchens in smaller places may stop taking orders earlier than you expect.
Eating by the plan
On a sightseeing day, take a late breakfast at your hotel, have a snack at the top of Fløyen or in the Ulriken summit cafe, and save the big meal for the evening. If you want a special dinner with a view, Skyskraperen at the summit of Ulriken takes reservations only, and the 12th-floor restaurant and sky bar at Scandic Ørnen has city and mountain views. Grand Hotel Terminus has a whisky bar restaurant, and Radisson Blu Royal Hotel serves local cuisine at 26 North Bergen, so a hotel dinner on a wet night is a reasonable plan. Always check opening days, because many restaurants close on Sundays and Mondays.
