Brussels is one of Europe's great food and drink cities without always advertising the fact. The classics are humble, frites, waffles and stew, and the specialities, chocolate and beer, are taken seriously. This guide explains what to order, how to avoid the tourist traps and which of our attractions will make every tasting more meaningful.
Frites
Belgians argue, with some justification, that they invented the chip, and the Frietmuseum makes the case with exhibits on the potato and the chip. What matters is the method: potatoes are fried twice, first at a lower temperature to cook them through and again at a higher one to crisp the outside, traditionally in beef fat. Order them from a fritkot, the small chip stand found on squares and street corners, in a paper cone with mayonnaise, or choose from a long list of sauces. Our Frietmuseum Brussels entry covers the history of the humble chip.
Waffles
There are two main styles and you will see both. The Brussels waffle is light, rectangular and airy with deep pockets, usually dusted with powdered sugar. The Liège waffle is denser, rounder and chewy, made with a yeast dough and pearl sugar that caramelises on the iron. Street stalls near the Grand-Place sell them heaped with cream and fruit, but a plain waffle, eaten warm, is often the best. As a rule, a short queue of locals is a better sign than a long menu with photographs.
Mussels and other classics
Mussels with frites, moules-frites, are the national dish and are at their best in the cooler months, from autumn through winter. Other dishes to look for are carbonnade flamande, beef slowly stewed in beer, waterzooi, a creamy chicken or fish stew, and stoemp, mashed potato blended with vegetables, often served with sausage. A brasserie is the usual place to find them. For something distinctly local, try filet américain, a seasoned raw beef spread served on bread or with chips, which is far tastier than it sounds. Vegetarians will find the old-town menus meat-heavy, but most brasseries will offer a salad, a cheese croquette or an omelette.
Chocolate
Belgium's reputation rests on technique and quality. Praline, the filled chocolate, is a Belgian invention, and the covered Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert is the traditional place to browse the windows. For context, begin at Choco-Story Brussels, where a demonstration shows how cocoa becomes a finished chocolate, then buy from a shop that makes its own. A few tips: look for chocolatiers who list the percentage of cocoa and the origin, buy in small boxes so you can try several makers, and avoid the shops with giant displays of identical novelty shapes near the main squares. Chocolate keeps well, but heat is its enemy, so keep it out of the sun on summer days.
Beer
Belgium brews in a remarkable variety of styles, and a tasting explains the choices. Belgian Beer World in the old stock exchange is the best introduction, with an overview of brewing and a guided tasting. Beyond that, the main families to know are lambic and gueuze, the spontaneously fermented sour beers that are the speciality of Brussels and its surroundings, fruit beers such as kriek made with cherries, Trappist ales brewed by monks, golden strong ales, and wheat beers. Each style has its own glass, and a good bar will serve the right one. Start with a lower-strength beer if you are new to the cuisine, because many Belgian beers are considerably stronger than a standard lager. Lambic breweries in the Anderlecht district offer visits, and the traditional cafés near the centre pour hundreds of bottles.
Coffee and cafés
Brussels cafés are built for lingering. Order one coffee and you can sit for as long as you like, and the bill is usually brought only when you ask for it. A speciality café culture has also grown up in the Dansaert and Saint-Gilles neighbourhoods, ideal for a mid-afternoon break between museums.
Markets and shopping
Weekend markets are an easy way to eat well and cheaply. The flea market in the Marolles district, around the Place du Jeu de Balle, runs daily and is a fun place for a coffee and a browse. Food markets operate on different days around the city, so ask at your hotel for the nearest one.
Practical tips
Service is included in the price, so tipping is optional; rounding up the bill is a polite gesture. Restaurants often close between lunch and dinner service, and some close on Sundays or Mondays, so check before you go. Book dinner ahead on weekends. Finally, resist the restaurants with touts on the street beside the Grand-Place, and walk two or three streets away to find better value.
