The Cinque Terre has a reputation for being expensive, and in July it can be. But the best of it, the landscape, the walking and the sea light, costs nothing, and with a few choices about where to sleep, when to come and how to eat, you can spend far less than the postcards suggest. This guide pulls together the practical ways to save, without turning the trip into a grind.
Choose the base wisely
The villages themselves have the highest room prices, because beds are few. La Spezia and Levanto, each a short train ride from the villages, usually offer more choice and lower prices, and both have supermarkets, markets and ordinary restaurants. Corniglia, the quietest village, can be slightly cheaper than its neighbours. Monterosso has the widest range of mid-priced rooms in the villages. If you want a village bed, book early, since the supply is small and the best-value rooms go first. Hotel Baia in Monterosso and Hotel Firenze e Continentale in La Spezia are two of the more moderate choices in our roster.
Travel off-peak
Shoulder months such as April, May, late September and October have far lower accommodation prices than July and August, and the weather suits walking. Winter is cheaper still, although many businesses close and the trails are at the mercy of the weather. If your dates are flexible, shifting by a few weeks can save more than any other trick.
Walk, and use the card with care
Walking is the cheapest way to see the coast. The coastal trail between villages needs the park Trekking Card, but many higher paths above the villages are free and give wide views with few people. If you plan three or more train hops in a day, the Train Card is usually better value than buying single tickets, and one day of intense village-hopping often pays for itself. Buy tickets online to avoid queues and always use regional trains rather than fast services, which are not covered. Keep in mind that the Via dell'Amore is sold separately on timed slots, so decide if it is worth the extra for you.
Free things to do
Every one of the five villages is free to wander, and each has its own character. Monterosso has a long public beach, with free access to the sand and the sea, and only the umbrellas and sunbeds cost money. Vernazza has a harbour square for watching the boats, Corniglia has a long staircase and a viewpoint over the sea, Manarola has the classic viewpoint above the rocks, and Riomaggiore has steep lanes and a small harbour. Portovenere is free to walk, with its church on the rocks and its old street. The Sanctuary of Reggio above Vernazza is a quiet and free pilgrimage destination reachable on foot. Local events, concerts and food festivals take place through the year, and many are free.
Eating cheaply
Focaccia from a bakery, a paper cone of fried anchovies and squid from a takeaway window, and a slice of farinata or pizza are the Cinque Terre's best budget meals, and you can eat them on a harbour wall with a view that no restaurant can match. Buy picnic food from a supermarket or deli in La Spezia, Levanto or Monterosso. When you do sit down, choose simple places away from the harbour front, ask for the house wine, usually a Vermentino, by the quarter or half litre, and read the menu for cover charges and fish priced by weight. Many apartments have kitchens, so cooking one meal a day can make a real difference.
Drink water for free
Tap water is safe, and public drinking fountains and your accommodation can refill a bottle. Carry one, and you will avoid a surprising amount of small spending in summer.
Spend where it counts
If you have a limited budget, put your money on one or two things that are worth it. A seated wine tasting in Manarola or a hands-on pesto class in Vernazza gives you a meal, local knowledge and a wet-weather option in one outing. A boat trip is the best way to see the villages from the sea and is a good choice for a single splurge. Skip the things that add little, such as buying many single tickets, taxis between the villages or lunch at the busiest harbour table.
A sample budget day
Breakfast of focaccia and coffee in a bakery, a morning walk on a free higher path or the coastal trail with a card, a picnic lunch on a rock or a harbour wall, an afternoon swim or village wander, and an evening aperitivo and a simple dinner. That is a full day on the coast without a single expensive reservation.
