Food is one of the best reasons to come to Durban. The city has one of the largest Indian-descended communities outside India, and generations of cooks have shaped a local cuisine that is hot, fragrant and unmistakably its own. Add a coastline full of seafood and a Zulu food tradition that runs through the hills inland, and you have a city where lunch is a destination in itself. This guide covers the dishes to look for and the places among the city's sights where eating fits naturally into the day.
Bunny chow
If you only eat one local dish, make it a bunny chow. A hollowed-out loaf of bread is filled with curry, traditionally mutton, chicken or beans, and eaten with your fingers, tearing off the bread to scoop up the sauce. It started as a practical way to carry a meal and is now served everywhere from street counters to sit-down restaurants. A quarter loaf is a generous lunch for one person, and a half loaf is made for sharing. Expect it to be spicy; ask how hot it is before you order if you are unsure, and keep the bread close to calm the heat.
Curry in general
Durban curries differ from those of northern India or the United Kingdom. They are often deep red from chilli, rich in masala and served with rice, roti or bread, and the cooking of the Tamil, Gujarati and Muslim communities each add their own character. Ask what the house speciality is, whether lamb, chicken, fish or a vegetable curry, and let the kitchen guide you. Many beachfront hotels and restaurants include at least one Indian restaurant; the Suncoast Hotel & Towers has an on-site Indian restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Victoria Street Market and the spice stalls
The covered market on the corner of Queen and Victoria Streets is the natural place to start. More than 170 stalls sell spices, baskets, beadwork and cloth, and it is the best place in the city to buy masala blends, dried chillies and spice packs to take home. Go in the morning, when the produce is freshest, and ask stallholders how they use each blend; most are happy to explain. Sampling is part of the process, and small purchases are easy to carry. Nearby, the Grey Street area around the Juma Masjid has small eateries, sweet shops and snack counters, so pair a morning at the market with a walk and a lunch stop in the same quarter.
Samoosas, roti and snacks
Look for samoosas, the triangular fried pastries with spiced filling, and for rotis, flatbreads that often come filled or served alongside curry. These are cheap, portable and ideal for a snack between sights. If you take the cultural walking tour, the half day covers the market, the beachfront and a lunch at a North Beach restaurant, which makes it an efficient way to try local food with a guide who knows where to go.
Vegetarian cooking at the temple
The Temple of Understanding in Chatsworth, the lotus-shaped Hare Krishna temple about twenty kilometres south of the centre, has an inexpensive vegetarian restaurant. It is a good choice for visitors who do not eat meat, and the visit combines easily with a tour of the temple itself. Check the temple's tour times by phone before you go, and plan your meal around them.
Seafood and sea views
Durban sits on the Indian Ocean, so fish and prawns appear on many menus. The beachfront has casual places along the Golden Mile where you can eat with the sand in view, and uShaka Marine World has restaurants in the Village Walk, which is free to enter. Umhlanga, to the north, has its own restaurant district on Chartwell Drive and a calmer, more upmarket feel. Stay with whatever is freshest and ask what came in that day rather than choosing by name alone.
Florida Road
For an evening out, Florida Road in Morningside is the city's best-known restaurant and bar strip, and Quarters Hotel sits one minute from it. It suits couples and groups who want a choice of places within walking distance of each other. Take a taxi or ride-hailing car there and back after dark.
Coffee, tea and a break from the heat
The Botanic Gardens have a coffee shop beside the lake, and it is a pleasant stop in the middle of a walk. The Umhlanga promenade has cafes near the lighthouse. Order water or a cold drink whenever you stop, since Durban is hot and humid for much of the year.
Practical tips
Restaurants usually expect a tip of around ten percent if service is not included. Cards are widely accepted in hotels and restaurants, but carry cash in small notes for market stalls and snack counters. Spice levels are real, so start mild and build up. If you have allergies or dietary needs, say so clearly when you order, since curries often use shared bases. Check opening hours before you go, as some smaller places close on Sundays or in the afternoon.
