Ephesus is the reason most people come to this corner of the Aegean, but the area around it rewards a longer look. Ephesus itself is outside the town of Selçuk, the Ephesus Museum, the Basilica of St John and the Temple of Artemis are in Selçuk, the House of the Virgin Mary is on a wooded hill above the ruins, Şirince is a wine village in the hills, and Kuşadası is the resort and cruise town on the coast. Together they make an easy, varied trip.
What to book ahead
Ephesus tickets are sold at the gate, and you can skip long queues in peak season by booking a guided tour with entry included. The Terrace Houses need a separate ticket on top of the main one, so choose a tour that includes them or buy it on site. Book the Pamukkale day trip and the Kuşadası boat trip a few days ahead, particularly from May to October, because small groups fill up and departures are fixed. Everything else, from the museum to the basilica to the Temple of Artemis, can be done on the day.
How many days
Two full days is the minimum for a satisfying visit: one for Ephesus, the Terrace Houses and the Virgin Mary house, and one for Selçuk and Şirince. Three days lets you add a boat trip, and four or five lets you take the long Pamukkale day trip without rushing. Cruise passengers with a single day in Kuşadası should book an organised Ephesus shore excursion with a guaranteed return to the port.
Where each sight fits
Start the day at Ephesus as early as possible, enter by the upper gate and walk downhill past the Temple of Hadrian, the Terrace Houses, the Library of Celsus and the Great Theatre. The Ephesus Experience Museum, which is covered by the ancient city ticket, sits opposite the theatre and works as a cool break. In the afternoon or on day two, visit the House of the Virgin Mary, then the Ephesus Museum, the Basilica of St John and the Temple of Artemis in Selçuk, which can all be done on foot in a morning. Save Şirince for late afternoon and dinner, when the day-trippers have left.
Getting around
Selçuk is walkable, and taxis are inexpensive for short rides to the ruins and the Virgin Mary house. Local minibuses run between Selçuk, Kuşadası and Şirince, but they can be infrequent, so check return times. A rental car gives you the most freedom, especially for Şirince and the coast. Organised tours with hotel pickup are the easiest option for Pamukkale and the boat trip. Adnan Menderes Airport near Izmir is roughly forty-five minutes to an hour away by road.
When to go
Spring and autumn are best for walking the ruins, with warm days and fewer crowds. Summer is hot and crowded, so aim for dawn and late afternoon and plan swimming for the middle of the day. In winter, daylight hours are short and some seasonal facilities close, though the ruins are far quieter. Always check current hours on the Ministry of Culture and Tourism pages before you go, since seasonal times and conservation works can change what is open.
Practical tips
Wear sturdy shoes, because marble is slippery, carry water and sun protection, and dress modestly at the House of the Virgin Mary and in village mosques. Carry some cash for small purchases in Şirince, and taste fruit wines before you buy. Respect the rules about not touching frescoes and walls.
A simple plan
Day one: Ephesus, the Terrace Houses and the Experience Museum in the morning, then the Virgin Mary house. Day two: the Ephesus Museum, the Basilica of St John and the Temple of Artemis, then Şirince for dinner. Day three: a boat trip or the Pamukkale day trip. Base yourself in Selçuk for the ruins or in Kuşadası for the beach and boats, as described in our where-to-stay guide.
