Where you sleep shapes your trip in Fes more than in most cities. The medina is atmospheric but car-free, with narrow lanes, porters and little parking. The hills and the new town are quieter and easier by car but a taxi ride from the sights. Here is how the main options compare.
Inside Fes el-Bali: the classic choice
Staying in a riad within the medina puts you in the middle of the old city, where you can walk to the madrasas, souks and the tannery district each morning and retreat to a quiet courtyard by afternoon. The trade-off is logistics. Luggage is carried in by porter, lanes are dark and confusing at night, and you need directions for your first evening. Once you settle, it is the most rewarding way to experience Fes.
The splurge: Riad Fès - Relais & Châteaux
For a milestone trip, [Riad Fès is the top address, a palatial Hispano-Moorish riad in the Batha quarter with four patios, a pool, a spa with hammams, a restaurant and a rooftop. It is close to Sidi El-Khayat square and an easy walk to the lanes toward Bou Inania.
Characterful mid-to-upper range: Palais Amani
Palais Amani is a restored palace-riad in the medina with tiled courtyards, a garden and its own cooking school. It is a strong choice for couples and food lovers who want character and a calm retreat without a palace price.
Good-value riad: Riad Idrissy
Riad Idrissy is a traditional courtyard guesthouse with a rooftop terrace, a practical mid-range base for walking to the sights. Rooms vary, so ask for a quiet one facing the courtyard.
On the hill: Hotel Sahrai
If you prefer modern comfort and easy access by car, Hotel Sahrai sits on a hillside above the medina with views, a pool and a spa. It suits families, longer stays and travellers arriving by car. You will take a short taxi ride to the medina gates, so plan your days around it.
Budget: Riad Chao Mama
Riad Chao Mama is a guesthouse and hostel in a medina riad, the most affordable way to sleep inside the walls. It is sociable and simple, so it fits backpackers and solo travellers, and it can suit couples who book a private room.
Getting in and out
Fes has an airport and a rail station, and petit taxis are cheap, but no vehicle can enter the medina lanes. Hotels inside the medina usually meet you at Bab Bou Jeloud or another gate and send a porter with a handcart for your bags, so confirm the meeting point and a phone number before you travel. Leaving is the same in reverse, so allow extra time for a morning train or flight.
How to choose
Pick a riad if you want atmosphere and are happy with porters and walking. Pick the hill if you want a pool, parking and a quieter night. Pick the budget option if you plan to spend your days out in the lanes. Whichever you choose, message the property before arrival to arrange a meeting point, as drivers cannot reach the door.
Practical tips
Ask about heating in winter and cooling in summer, because older houses vary. Request a courtyard-facing room if noise bothers you. Check whether breakfast is included, and confirm airport or station pickups in advance. Spring and autumn book up, so reserve early for those months.