Ajuy sits on the rugged west coast, a small fishing village at the end of a winding road from the Pájara valley. Its beach is a short strip of dark volcanic sand and pebbles, about 270 metres long, with strong wind and rough waves, so it is a place to look at rather than to swim. A path leads from the village along the cliffs to the Ajuy caves, a protected natural monument where the sea has carved large chambers into the cliff. The rock here is very old, formed on the sea floor long before the volcanoes that built the rest of the island, and geologists come to study it. The setting is wild and photogenic, with white foam against dark stone, and the walk is easy and short. Above the village you can also see the remains of old lime kilns. The village has a handful of simple restaurants serving fresh fish and local dishes with a view of the ocean.
Getting there
Ajuy is reached by road from the village of Pájara, and the beach is easy to reach on foot or by car. The nearest main road is the FV-621. The last stretch winds down to a small car park by the beach, and parking can be tight at midday, so go early or late. The walk to the caves follows the cliff path from the village and takes only a short time, but the surface is uneven, so wear shoes with good grip rather than flip-flops.
Safety
The Atlantic is powerful here, and the caves are exposed to swell. In high waves or at high tide, water can surge into the chambers, so check conditions, keep well back from the waterline and the cliff edges, and never turn your back on the sea. Do not enter the caves in rough conditions, and keep children close. The beach is not suitable for swimming in most conditions, with strong waves and a steep shore, and the water is about 19 degrees.
Making the most of it
Late afternoon is a lovely time, with warm light on the cliffs and a table at a restaurant for sunset. Combine Ajuy with Betancuria, which is about a half hour inland by mountain road, for a west-coast day. Bring a layer, because the wind off the sea is cool, and take water if you plan to walk further along the cliffs.
The coast is protected, so stay on the paths, take your rubbish with you and do not remove stones or fossils. In November the days are mild and the crowds are lighter than in the peak summer months.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided visit to a small fishing village, its dark beach and a short cliff path to the sea caves.
Best time
Late afternoon for warm light on the cliffs and sunset, and only on days when the sea is calm.
How long
One to two hours including the walk, photographs and a meal at a village restaurant.
Tips
Wear grippy shoes, stay well back from the waterline and cliff edges, avoid the caves in high swell and bring a layer for the wind.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone who enjoys dramatic coastline, geology and photography without a long hike.
- Families
- The walk is short, but the waves are powerful and the cliffs are exposed, so keep children close and away from the water.
- Couples
- A late-afternoon walk along the cliffs, then dinner of fresh fish overlooking the ocean.
- Pair with
- Betancuria inland and a Cofete trip on another day.
- Time needed
- A couple of hours, or a half day with Betancuria.
Good questions
Is Ajuy free to visit?+
Yes, the village, the beach and the cliff path to the caves are free. You only pay for parking where it is charged, and for any meal you have.
Can I swim at Ajuy?+
The beach has strong waves and wind and is generally not suitable for swimming. The water is about 19 degrees, so it is cooler than the east coast.
Are the caves safe to enter?+
They can be, in calm conditions at low tide, but the sea is powerful and swell can surge into the chambers. Check conditions, stay back from the water and avoid the caves in high waves.
How do I get to Ajuy?+
By road from Pájara, then a short walk from the village to the caves. A car is the easiest way, and parking can be tight at midday.
What else is nearby?+
Betancuria, the island’s old capital, is a short drive inland over the mountains. The two make a good west-coast day.
