Camogli

Camogli is the Riviera town that most visitors fall for quickly. Tall, narrow houses in shades of ochre, red and yellow rise straight out of the harbour, many decorated with painted shutters, false windows and carved details that give them extra depth. A medieval castle perched on a rock, the Castel Dragone, and a basilica beside the sea complete a scene that looks almost too perfect. The name is often linked to the phrase casa delle mogli, houses of the wives, a nod to the days when the men of Camogli went to sea as sailors and captains, leaving wives to run the town. Once a major shipping centre, it still has fishermen, and its famous annual fish festival in May fries thousands of fish in a giant pan. The rest of the year, it is a quiet seaside town.

Getting there is easy. Trains from Genoa Brignole and Principe run along the coast and reach Camogli in about 30 minutes, and the station is a short walk uphill and down from the waterfront. Boats link the town with San Fruttuoso, Portofino and Genoa in season. The ride along the coast, with views of villages and the sea, is one of the pleasures of the trip.

On arrival, walk down to the promenade and the harbour. The beach is long, pebbled and lined with cafes and fish restaurants. Climb to the basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, visit the small aquarium if it is open, and follow the lanes behind the harbour, where bakeries sell focaccia di Recco, a thin cheese-filled bread from the neighbouring town.

Food is a good reason to come. Seafood is fresh and local, and typical dishes include fried anchovies, stuffed mussels and pasta with fish sauces. Focaccia with cheese, focaccia with onion and farinata are staples. A walking food tour can help you discover small bakeries and delis, and a market visit adds more flavour.

Camogli is also a gateway for walking. Trails climb into the hills of the Portofino park, and the walk to San Fruttuoso is a classic. Even a short stroll along the coast path to a viewpoint rewards you with views of the town from above. Wear sturdy shoes and carry water, and avoid the hottest hours in summer.

Summer weekends bring beach crowds, so a weekday or a shoulder season visit is calmer. Late afternoon is a lovely time for photographs, when the sun lights the fronts of the houses. If you stay overnight, the town feels very different once the day visitors leave, quiet and a little wistful.

To make the most of a short visit, start at the station, walk down the stairs to the front, follow the promenade to the castle and basilica, and loop back through the lanes. That route takes about an hour at an easy pace and ends near the best focaccia bakeries. If you are lucky enough to visit during the fish festival, expect large crowds, music and simple fried fish served from stalls along the sea front.

If you stay the night, look for a room with a sea view and listen to the waves at dawn. The town is also an easy base for Recco and Sori, small towns known for their own focaccia and for quiet beaches, and for the trail to Punta Chiappa, a rocky headland popular for swimming and sunsets on the promontory.