Santa Margherita and Rapallo

Santa Margherita Ligure and Rapallo sit side by side on the Gulf of Tigullio, around forty minutes east of Genoa by train. Both grew into seaside resorts in the late nineteenth century, when European aristocrats came to winter on the Riviera, and their promenades, grand hotels and gardens still carry that period glamour. They are calmer and more affordable than Portofino, which makes them a practical base as well as a pleasant day out. Santa Margherita has a pretty harbour, a lively centre of arcades and shops, and the Villa Durazzo, a Genoese villa with gardens and a small museum. Rapallo is larger, with a medieval castle built into the sea wall, a long waterfront and a cable car that rises to the sanctuary of Montallegro, giving panoramic views over the gulf.

The easiest way to enjoy them is to wander. Walk the seafront, stop for ice cream or a spritz, watch the boats and browse the shops. In Santa Margherita, the fishermens quarter and the harbour have the most character. In Rapallo, the castle and the old centre are worth a look, and the market days bring local colour.

Food here leans on the sea. Fresh fish, anchovies and prawns appear in simple dishes, along with pesto, focaccia and local wines. A food tour in Santa Margherita can introduce you to bakeries, delis and small restaurants that visitors would otherwise walk past. Restaurants on the front are convenient, while streets a block behind often offer better value.

Both towns are good starting points for excursions. Ferries from Santa Margherita cross to Portofino in about fifteen minutes and continue to San Fruttuoso in season. Buses and walking paths also link the villages of the promontory. If you want to avoid the crowds in Portofino, base yourself here and visit Portofino in the early morning or late afternoon.

Beaches are mostly pebbly and often run by clubs that charge for sunbeds, although public stretches exist. The water is clean and warm in summer, and calm for swimming. In winter the promenades are quiet, and the mild climate makes walking pleasant. Check ferry timetables in the low season, because services are reduced.

For travellers without a car, these towns show what the Riviera is like beyond the headline names. The train station is close to the centre in both, the pace is gentle and prices are friendlier. Many visitors spend a night or two here after Genoa before moving on to other parts of Italy.

Check market days before you go, because stalls fill the streets and change the feel of the town. In summer, evening concerts and fireworks sometimes accompany local festivals. If you plan a lunch of fresh fish, book ahead on weekends, and keep your afternoon free for a swim or a walk along the promenade. A day here, combined with Portofino and Camogli, makes a strong case for a night or two on the Riviera.

Photography fans will enjoy the evening light on the harbour in Santa Margherita and the castle in Rapallo, which sits on the water and glows after sunset. Families will find playgrounds, ice cream and flat promenades, while couples can enjoy a quiet drink on a terrace before returning to Genoa on one of the frequent local trains.