San Fruttuoso Abbey

San Fruttuoso is one of the most beautiful places on the Ligurian coast, and part of its charm is that cars cannot reach it. The abbey sits at the head of a narrow cove on the wild side of the Portofino promontory, its pale stone cloister and Genoese tower facing the beach. It dates back about a thousand years and was long associated with the Doria family, whose tombs are visible in the church. Today it is cared for by the Italian national trust and open to visitors. Most people arrive by boat from Camogli, Portofino or Santa Margherita Ligure, a short trip along cliffs and tiny inlets. Boat tours often combine San Fruttuoso with Portofino, giving you a sea view of the village and time in the cove for a swim or lunch. The alternative is a hike over the headland from Camogli or Portofino, which takes a few hours and rewards the effort with arrival on foot.

The abbey itself is compact. You can walk through the cloister, look into the church and climb to the upper rooms to see the architecture, then spend the rest of your time on the beach or in the small cafes and restaurants beside it. There are no hotels or roads, and in the evening, once the boats leave, the cove falls quiet.

A highlight is the Christ of the Abyss, a bronze statue placed underwater near the cove in the 1950s to honour divers lost at sea. It sits several metres down, with arms raised, and is visited by divers and snorkellers. A replica can be seen elsewhere, but the original in its natural setting is the draw for those who swim. Conditions vary, so check with local operators before entering the water.

The beach is pebbly and small. It fills quickly in summer, so arrive early if you want a spot. Water shoes help on the stones, and the sea is clear, cool and inviting on a warm day. Restaurants serve fish and pasta, and prices are fair for the setting, although supplies come by boat and menus are simple.

If you plan to walk, the paths are well marked but steep in places. Start early, bring water, wear proper shoes and check weather and trail conditions, since parts of the coast path can close after storms. Many hikers walk one way and return by boat, which is a good compromise.

Boats run from spring to autumn, with reduced service in winter and cancellations in rough seas. If the weather looks unsettled, have a plan B, such as a train to Camogli and a walk in the village. In good weather, San Fruttuoso is a highlight of any trip from Genoa, and a rare Riviera place that still feels untouched.

If you are staying in Genoa, a good compromise is to take the train to Camogli, ride the boat to San Fruttuoso, spend the middle of the day in the cove, and return by boat to Portofino before taking the bus or ferry back toward Santa Margherita. Check last departure times carefully, because missing the final boat can leave you facing a long walk. Pack light, since there is nowhere to store luggage.