Porto Antico and the Bigo

The Porto Antico is the part of Genoa where the city meets the sea in a way visitors can enjoy. For centuries it was a working dock, cut off from the town by a raised road and walls. In 1992, for the Columbus anniversary, Renzo Piano, a Genoese architect, reshaped the area into a public waterfront with promenades, squares, a marina, and landmark structures such as the Bigo, a white steel crane-like frame that holds a panoramic lift. Today the Porto Antico is the best place to start a day in Genoa. The Aquarium, the Galata maritime museum, the Biosphere glasshouse, a small ice rink in winter, seasonal events, restaurants, cafes and ferry departures cluster around the old quays, and the old town begins just behind it. In the evening, the area fills with Genoese families walking, eating gelato and watching the lights on the water.

The Bigo is the structure everyone notices first. Its slender white arms, inspired by the cranes that unloaded ships in the old port, support a circular glass cabin that rises to give a 360 degree view of the harbour, the old town and the hills. The lift runs seasonally and in suitable weather, and it is ticketed, so check on arrival. At night it is lit up, and the whole harbour becomes a stage set.

The Biosphere, a transparent glass sphere floating in the water, is another of Piano's creations and contains a tropical garden that can be visited in good conditions. It is smaller than the neighbouring attractions but photogenic, and a gentle place for children.

Walking is the main activity. A loop of the Porto Antico takes about an hour at a slow pace with stops, and the flat paths suit pushchairs and wheelchairs. Lingering at a cafe terrace, watching the boats and eating focaccia or ice cream is a perfectly valid plan, especially after a morning of museums.

The area is easy to reach. It is a flat twenty to thirty minute walk from Principe and Brignole stations, and the Darsena and San Giorgio metro stops lie close by. Boat trips depart from the quays, and the passenger ferries of the Gulf also operate from nearby piers, so it is also the natural meeting point for a Portofino or Camogli day.

As for timing, mornings are calm and good for photographs, midday can be hot with little shade, and evenings are lively. In winter, the harbour can be windy, but the clear air often brings the best views of the hills. If you want a free orientation to the city, start here, then climb into the old town.

If you are staying in the city for several days, you will probably pass through the Porto Antico more than once. Use the first visit for orientation and the second for a slow evening. Street performers, small markets and seasonal events add colour, and the cafes along the quay are good places to people-watch. The area is also a handy luggage-free meeting point before heading to nearby stations or the old town, and its public toilets and benches make it an easy stop with children.

Accessibility is good across the promenades, with ramps and lifts at most attractions, and benches are spread along the quays for rests. In bad weather the covered arcades along the old customs buildings, the Magazzini del Cotone, offer shelter, shops and a cinema, so the area still works on a wet day.