San Lorenzo Cathedral

The Cathedral of San Lorenzo is the spiritual centre of Genoa and one of the most photographed buildings in the old town. The facade is faced in alternating bands of black and white marble, a style that echoes Pisa and Tuscany, with Gothic portals carved with saints and animals, and two stone lions guarding the steps. Work on the church began in the twelfth century, and it was reworked in the following centuries, with a Renaissance dome by Galeazzo Alessi being one of the later additions. Inside, the atmosphere is calm and slightly austere. Stripes continue along the nave, chapels hold altarpieces and frescoes, and a large painted chapel honours St John the Baptist, whose relics are said to be kept here. A shell fired from a British warship in 1941 landed in the building without exploding and is displayed inside, a curiosity that guides often point out.

The cathedral is free to enter, though visitors should dress modestly and keep voices down. Entry to the treasury museum, which is accessed from within or beside the church, is ticketed. It holds goldsmiths work, reliquaries and the Sacro Catino, a green vessel with a long and legendary history that Genoese chroniclers claimed was linked to the Holy Grail.

Look carefully at the facade. The reliefs on the portals tell stories of saints, and the smaller carvings include lions, griffins and fantastic beasts. The stone lions at the foot of the steps are a favourite with children, who often climb on them for photographs, although visitors are asked to treat them with respect.

The cathedral stands on Via San Lorenzo, only a few minutes from Palazzo Ducale and Piazza De Ferrari, and a short downhill walk from the Porto Antico. That makes it easy to combine with a larger old town loop. A natural sequence is Piazza De Ferrari, Palazzo Ducale, the cathedral, then the caruggi down to the sea.

Opening hours vary through the day, and the cathedral may close for services or mid-day breaks, so check the schedule if your time is tight. Mass is a good moment to see the building in use, but it is not the right moment for sightseeing and photography. Early morning often brings quiet and good light on the facade.

If you enjoy architecture, climb nothing and simply sit in a pew for ten minutes. The shifting light on the striped stone, the smell of incense and the sound of footsteps in the old town outside make it one of the most atmospheric stops in the city, and it costs nothing.

For photographers, the best angle on the facade is from the square in front in the late morning, when the sun lights the stripes without harsh shadows. Step inside afterwards to feel the contrast between the bright exterior and the cool, dim nave. If you have a spare half hour, sit in a side chapel and listen to the sounds of the city drift in, or walk around the side of the building to see the lanes and small shops that crowd against its walls, a reminder that this is a living church in the middle of a living town, not a museum piece.