Ghent is a year-round city. Its climate is mild and maritime, rain can fall in any month and the old centre is pleasant to walk in all seasons. The best time depends on what you want: warm terraces, festivals, thin crowds or Christmas lights. This guide goes through the seasons so you can choose.
Spring
From March to May the city wakes up. Trees along the canals turn green, terraces on the quays reopen and the temperature is comfortable for walking, though showers are common, so carry a light waterproof. Crowds are moderate, and hotel rates are usually below summer levels. Spring is a good time for the bicycle tour, the Van Eyck walk and the beguinages, since the gardens and meadows are fresh. Easter and long weekends are busier, so book ahead for those.
Summer
June to August is the liveliest period. Days are long, the quays are packed with people on terraces and the city hosts outdoor events. The biggest is the Ghent Festivities in July, a ten day street festival of music, theatre and food that fills the centre, and hotels book up and prices rise, so reserve well in advance. Temperatures are comfortable, though hot spells happen. Start sightseeing early, take the canal boat in the afternoon and use the long evenings for dinner outside. The Belfry and the castle can be busy at midday.
Autumn
September to November is a lovely, quieter time. Crowds thin, the light is golden, and the museums, cafes and beer bars become the focus as the weather cools. It is an excellent season for MSK and S.M.A.K., for a beer tasting or a chocolate tour and for long lunches. Bring layers and a waterproof, since rain is frequent, and note that daylight shortens, so plan outdoor sights for the middle of the day. Prices are often the best of the year outside school holidays.
Winter
From December to February Ghent is cold, short on daylight and very atmospheric. The Christmas market and winter festivities light up the old centre in December, and the lit towers and quays are beautiful after dark. Outside the holiday period the city is calm, and you will have the sights to yourself. Gravensteen and the Belfry stay open every day apart from 24, 25 and 31 December and 1 January, so winter is a fine time for the castle, as long as you wrap up. Indoor activities such as museums, workshops and beer tastings come into their own. The Ghent Light Festival is held every three years, so check whether an edition falls in your dates if you want to plan around it.
Opening days and booking
Some museums close on Mondays, so check the day of the week before you plan. Booking ahead is wise for weekends, school holidays and the December markets, and for food and beer tours, which run in small groups. Weekday visits are quieter in every season.
Weather and what to pack
Whatever the month, pack for changeable weather. A light waterproof, comfortable shoes for cobbles and a layer you can add or remove will serve you in every season, and an umbrella is useful in spring and autumn. In winter add gloves and a hat, since the wind along the water is sharp, and in summer carry a bottle of water and sun protection for the quays. The good news is that Ghent is a city where rain does not spoil much, because museums, churches, cafes and workshops are never far away, and the lit towers look especially fine on a damp evening.
School holidays and events
Belgian school holidays, long weekends and big events bring more visitors and higher hotel rates, and the centre can be busy on Saturdays at any time of year. If you have flexibility, travel midweek, book hotels and tours early, and leave your first morning free for the sights that sell out soonest. Check the festival calendar before you book, since events such as the Ghent Festivities in July can change both the atmosphere and the prices.
A good rule
For the best balance of weather, light and crowds, aim for May, June or September. For festivals and long evenings, choose July. For cosiness and low prices, choose winter and bring a good coat. Whatever the season, allow at least two days, and stay in the old centre so that you can walk everywhere. The Ghent Marriott and Novotel Gent Centrum are both good bases in any season.
