Ghent is one of the best food cities in Belgium, and it is far less touristy than Bruges. Students keep the bars lively and the prices fair, local chefs take Flemish tradition seriously and the beer scene is rich. You can eat well on a modest budget, drink better than you expected and still find room for chocolate. This guide explains what to try and how to find it.
Dishes to try
Waterzooi is the signature Ghent dish, a creamy stew of chicken or fish with vegetables and cream, originally from the city and traditionally served with potatoes or bread. Flemish stew, cooked in beer and served with chips, is the other classic, and mussels with fries are everywhere. Look for seasonal menus with local produce, and ask for the dish of the day, which is often the best value. For a sweet, try the cuberdon, a purple cone-shaped sweet with a soft, syrupy centre that is a Ghent speciality, sold in shops and market stalls. Ghent is also known for its mustard, which you can buy as a souvenir.
Beer
Belgian beer is recognised by UNESCO as part of the country's cultural heritage, and Ghent is a good place to explore it. Styles range from light blondes and tripels to dark ales and sour beers, and many bars have long lists. A guided beer tasting walk is the easiest introduction, with a guide who explains the styles and picks the bars, and it is a fine winter evening activity. Look for glasses designed for each beer, and remember that many Belgian beers are strong, so eat first and pace yourself. The canal-side bars around the Graslei and the Kraanlei, including the well known Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant, are popular for a first drink.
Chocolate and waffles
Belgium's chocolate reputation is deserved, and Ghent has independent makers as well as the big names. A chocolate walking tour with tastings lets you compare dark, milk and filled chocolates with a guide who explains what makes them good. For something hands-on, a waffles and beer workshop teaches you to bake and then eat your own, and it is a good wet-weather idea. Brussels waffles are light and crisp, Liege waffles are denser and sweeter, and both are best fresh from the iron.
Food tours
If you only have a day or two, a guided food tour is an efficient way to taste the city. A gastronomic walking tour with tasters introduces local specialities and small plates, and it doubles as an orientation walk. Book a few days ahead, especially for weekends, and tell the organisers about allergies in advance. Eat lightly beforehand, since portions add up.
Where to eat
Patershol, the lanes behind the castle, is the best area for a longer dinner, with small restaurants in old houses. The Korenmarkt and the streets around the Vrijdagmarkt are better for lunch and casual bars. Cafes and bakeries are good for breakfast and coffee. Book dinner on Friday and Saturday evenings, and check closing days, since many small restaurants close on one or two days of the week. Lunch menus are usually better value than dinner, so make lunch your main meal if you are watching costs.
Tips
Service is included in the price in Belgium, so tipping is a courtesy rather than an obligation. Kitchens often close between lunch and dinner, so eat at normal hours. Vegetarian options are widespread, and good guides adapt for dietary needs if asked. Pair a meal with a walk along the quays to keep the evening relaxed.
Breakfast and coffee
Start the day the Belgian way, with fresh bread, a pastry and good coffee from a local bakery, or choose a hotel that includes a breakfast buffet, which saves time and money. Ghent has plenty of independent cafes, many of them in old buildings along the canals, and they are the best places to pause between sights. In the afternoon, a hot chocolate made with real Belgian chocolate is a fitting treat, especially on a cold day, and many cafes serve it with a waffle or a biscuit.
Markets and picnics
If you want to eat on the move, markets on the squares sell fruit, cheese, bread and snacks, and a picnic by the water on a sunny day is a lovely way to spend an hour. Take-away chips with sauce from a friterie are a Belgian classic, and the shops around the Korenmarkt sell sandwiches and sweets. Ask locals for their favourite bakery, since people in Ghent are proud of their food and happy to share tips.
Where to stay
Staying in the old centre puts the best restaurants and bars at your door. Hotel Gravensteen and Hotel Harmony are beside Patershol and the Kraanlei, and Erasmus Hotel includes a breakfast buffet in the rate.