The Templo de San Cayetano, known simply as the Valenciana church, is the most flamboyant monument that Guanajuato's silver ever produced. It stands in the Valenciana district, above the city, and was built in the second half of the eighteenth century by the owner of the neighbouring mine, Antonio de Obregón, the Count of Valenciana. The pink-stone façade is crowded with carved columns, saints and ornament in the exuberant churrigueresque style, flanked by two towers of different heights, and the interior is a blaze of gilded altarpieces, carved wood and paintings. The church is often cited among the most beautiful baroque buildings in Mexico, and its setting, with the mine works and chimneys close at hand, makes the link between money and devotion very plain. The tourism board lists the temple of San Cayetano, in the Mineral de Valenciana, among the principal churches of the region, and the city tour it runs treats the church as a main stop. Inside, look up at the ceiling, study the three great gilded altars and notice how every inch of the walls is covered with detail. The sense of scale is surprising for a church on a small hillside barrio, and it makes an impressive companion to the mine just along the road.
Why go
Churches of this ambition are rare outside the capital, and the Valenciana church is the one you are most likely to remember. Standing before the façade, you can imagine the mine owner and his master craftsmen planning a monument that would last. The sheer quantity of gold leaf in the interior is a measure of what the silver mine produced. For anyone interested in colonial art, it is a higher point than the grand but more restrained churches of the centre, and it gives a very different view of the Mexican baroque.
Working the visit
The tourism board's city tour page notes that the church is closed on Mondays and throughout October, and that the interior can be visited only when no concert is scheduled, so check before making the trip. Entry is free, though donations are welcome. Taxis are the easiest way up from the centre, and many visitors combine the church with the Valenciana mine and the nearby San Ramón mine mouth in a single morning.
Dress modestly, keep voices low and avoid flash. Late afternoon light on the stone is lovely, but the mine and church both close in the evening, so go earlier if you want to see both.
Who it suits
Architecture and art lovers, photographers, history fans and anyone who has enjoyed the Basílica in the centre and wants to see the grander version. Families can manage it as a short stop within the mine outing, since the church is compact and the surrounding streets are easy to stroll. The Silver Mines and Museums Half-Day Tour on this site passes through the same district and can include the church as an optional stop, so ask the host if you want it.
Whether you come independently or on a tour, build in some time to sit on the steps and look back at the façade, and then to wander the lanes of the barrio, where small cafés and craft stalls cater to day-trippers.
What to expect
The experience
A free, self-guided visit to a showpiece baroque church in the Valenciana district, with a carved pink-stone façade and gilded altarpieces.
Best time
Morning to early afternoon, combined with the nearby mine; avoid Mondays and check the autumn closure.
How long
Thirty to forty-five minutes at the church, plus time in the district.
Tips
Check opening days before you go, dress modestly, avoid flash and take a taxi up from the centre.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Baroque architecture lovers and anyone curious about how silver money became art.
- Families
- A short stop within a mine outing; the golden interior holds attention for a few minutes.
- Couples
- Visit in good light, then enjoy the viewpoint and a quiet lunch in the barrio.
- Pair with
- The Valenciana mine, the El Nopal mine and the Silver Mines and Museums Tour.
- Time needed
- About forty-five minutes, plus travel.
Good questions
Who built the Valenciana church?+
It was built in the eighteenth century by Antonio de Obregón, the owner of the neighbouring Valenciana mine and Count of Valenciana, with the wealth of the mine.
What style is it?+
It is a showpiece of the Mexican baroque, with a carved pink-stone façade in the exuberant churrigueresque manner and gilded altarpieces inside.
When is it closed?+
The tourism board notes it is closed on Mondays and throughout October, and the interior may be closed when a concert is scheduled. Check before you go.
Is there an entrance fee?+
No, entry is free. Donations are welcome.
How do I get there?+
By taxi or local bus from the centre. It is in the Valenciana district, close to the Valenciana mine.
