Harbin's food reflects its climate and its history. The northeast is a land of long winters, so the cooking is hearty, warming and generous, with big portions, thick sauces, pickled vegetables and plenty of meat. Add a century of Russian and European influence, and you get a cuisine that is quite distinct from the delicate dishes of the south. This guide covers the main things to try and how to enjoy them.
Dumplings
Dumplings are the heart of northeastern cooking. They are boiled, steamed or fried, filled with pork, beef, lamb, chives, cabbage, mushrooms or seafood, and served with vinegar, garlic and chilli oil. Families make them together, especially at New Year, and a dumpling restaurant is a good place to eat on your first evening. If you want to learn, a hands-on cooking class teaches the folding technique and ends with a shared meal.
Pot-stewed pork and other classics
Guo bao rou, a crisp, sweet and sour battered pork, is the signature dish of the region and a staple on tourist menus. Other classics include stewed dishes of pork, potatoes and vegetables, pickled cabbage with pork, braised fish, and cold salads of seaweed, tofu and cucumber. Portions are large, so order a few dishes to share, rather than one each.
Hot pot
In winter, hot pot is irresistible. A pot of broth simmers in the middle of the table while you cook thin slices of meat, vegetables, tofu and noodles, dipping them in sesame, garlic and chilli sauces. Northeastern hot pot often includes pickled cabbage broth and sweet sauces. A novelty option is the igloo hot pot experience, where tables are set inside snow igloos. It suits couples and small groups.
Russian-influenced bread, sausages and sweets
The Russian era left a taste for dense bread, smoked sausages, pastries and ice cream. Harbin's red sausage is a local favourite, and bakeries sell large round loaves and sweet rolls. Walk Central Street to sample ice cream, which locals eat even in sub-zero weather. Cafes and restaurants near the old town serve borscht, steaks and other dishes in the Russian style.
Grilled skewers and street food
Skewers of lamb, beef and vegetables, seasoned with cumin and chilli, are a favourite late-night meal, often washed down with beer. In winter, vendors sell roasted sweet potatoes and chestnuts, and the famous frozen candied fruit on a stick, which is crisp, sweet and cold. Street food is a lively part of the city, so go with an open mind, choose busy stalls and carry some tissues.
Beer and drinks
Harbin lager is the local beer, brewed in the city since the early twentieth century, and it is served cold with grilled meats and dumplings. A brewery and museum visit tells the story and ends with a tasting. Other local drinks include kvass, a lightly fermented bread drink with a Russian pedigree, and strong spirits served at banquets. Tea is served with most meals.
Eating etiquette
Meals are communal, with dishes placed in the middle of the table. Use the serving utensils if provided, do not stick chopsticks upright in rice and expect to be offered more food than you can eat. Toasts are common at dinner, and it is polite to wait for the host. If you have dietary restrictions, learn a few key phrases or use a translation app, since broths, sauces and fillings often contain meat, shellfish, peanuts or sesame.
Where to eat
Central Street and the old town have restaurants of all types, from small dumpling shops to large banquet halls. In Songbei, shopping malls hold many chain restaurants and hot pot houses. Hotels often have good restaurants that cater to foreign visitors. Popular places fill quickly in festival season, so book ahead when you can.
Food and the ice park
Eat a proper meal before you head to the cold. Hot food keeps you warm, and queues for snacks inside the parks can be long. Carry a thermos of hot water or tea, and take breaks in heated areas. After a long evening outdoors, a late supper of dumplings or skewers is a Harbin tradition.
Sweet treats and late snacks
Beyond the main meals, Harbin has a sweet tooth. Bakeries sell heavy fruit breads, cream-filled pastries and chocolate, and the frozen fruit coated in sugar syrup is a winter favourite. Cafes in the old town serve coffee and cake in rooms that feel a long way from the cold outside. Late at night, grilled skewers, noodle soups and hot pots keep going, so a late supper after the ice park is easy to find.
