Saijo Sake Town

Saijo, part of Higashihiroshima, is counted among Japan's classic sake-brewing districts alongside Nada in Kobe and Fushimi in Kyoto, and it is the easiest of the three to visit from Hiroshima. Brewers gathered here because of the soft local water and the rice grown on the surrounding plain, and the town still has a cluster of working breweries within walking distance of the station. Their tall red-brick chimneys and black-and-white storehouses make the streets very photogenic, and many breweries have tasting rooms where you can pour small cups of different styles. Hiroshima sake tends toward gentle, soft and slightly sweet profiles, which suits people new to sake. Doing this alone is possible but slightly awkward, since not every brewery has English signs and opening hours vary, so a guided tasting walk is a good choice. The usual format covers several breweries and a number of tastings in a couple of hours, with the guide explaining the brewing process, the polishing grades on the labels and how to pair sake with food. Buy a bottle you like and ask the staff for packing advice if it is going in luggage.

Saijo is about half an hour from Hiroshima Station on the JR Sanyo Line, with an easy walk from the station to the brewery lanes. Come hungry, because many tasting counters sell pickles, snacks or light meals, and some brewery restaurants serve lunch. The best time of year is October, when the annual sake festival fills the town with visitors, though it is crowded and some tours sell out early. In winter the brewing season is in full swing and the air smells of steamed rice, which many visitors find atmospheric.

A guided tasting is the best way to get the most from a short visit. The tour for this entry is a small-group walk through multiple breweries with several sake tastings, and it is geared to beginners as much as enthusiasts. Take the guide up on the chance to try different grades side by side, such as a junmai, a ginjo and a sparkling or aged style, because the differences are easier to taste than to explain. The pours are small but they add up, so eat something first and drink water between breweries.

Practicalities are simple. Wear comfortable shoes for cobbled lanes, bring a small bag for bottles and check which days the breweries are open, since some close on weekdays or for maintenance. Plan to be back in Hiroshima before late evening if you want dinner in town. Saijo works well as a half-day after a morning at the Peace Memorial Park or as a relaxed afternoon on a day when the weather is poor, and it pairs naturally with a Hiroshima okonomiyaki dinner. Designated drivers can enjoy the architecture, but tastings are the main draw.