Tvrdalj and Stari Grad Old Town

Stari Grad is the island's other town, and a different place from glamorous Hvar Town. Founded by Greek colonists in 384 BC, it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited towns in Europe, set at the head of a long, sheltered inlet on the island's northern shore. Its old quarter is a tangle of stone lanes, small squares and whitewashed houses, with a waterfront lined by cafes and fishing boats and a pace set by the ferries and the weather. The prime sight is the Tvrdalj, the fortified summer residence built in the sixteenth century by the poet Petar Hektorovic. Behind plain walls lie a garden, a cloister-like courtyard, an arcaded fish pond fed by seawater and walls inscribed with Latin and Croatian verses and proverbs, chosen by the owner as a kind of personal philosophy. The ensemble feels like a poem in stone, quiet and contemplative.

Hektorovic was a notable figure of Croatian Renaissance literature, best known for a long poem, Fishing and Fishermen's Talk, which describes a three-day voyage he made with two fishermen around the islands. The Tvrdalj embodies his ideas. The fish pond, where mullet were kept, supplied the household and let him observe them, and the walls are covered with inscriptions urging moderation and reflection.

The complex was also designed as a refuge for villagers in the event of Ottoman raids, which explains its fortified exterior. Today it is a small museum and a calm place to sit, with shade, water and birdsong.

Around it, Stari Grad rewards slow wandering. Look for the old harbour, the Church of St Stephen and the small museums and galleries that mark the town's heritage. The Stari Grad Plain begins just outside town, so many visitors combine the town stroll with a walk or ride into the fields, or with the tuk tuk tour. Cafes along the waterfront make a good place for a long coffee, and restaurants specialize in fresh fish. Because many travelers pass through only to catch the ferry, mornings and evenings are especially quiet and local.

Staying here suits travelers who value calm, a lower price level and easy ferry connections to Split. Out of season the town is delightfully quiet, and in summer it hosts small cultural events. Wear comfortable shoes for cobbles, and pair the visit with a wine tasting or a swim at nearby coves.

Early in the day, the courtyard and fish pond are peaceful and light is gentle for photography. Take time to read some of the inscriptions on the walls, which reward attention, and sit by the water for a few minutes. If you are traveling with children, point out the fish in the pond and let them look for the carved verses. Afterward, stroll to the harbour, find a table at one of the fish restaurants and enjoy the slow rhythm that makes Stari Grad so appealing.