Nathmal Ki Haveli

Nathmal Ki Haveli was built in the late nineteenth century for Diwan Nathmal, the prime minister of Jaisalmer, and it is one of the most charming buildings in the old city. The story told by guides is that two brothers, both master stone carvers, were hired to decorate the haveli and each took one side. They worked without comparing designs, so the left and right halves of the facade differ in many details, a quirk that gives the building a playful, human character. Tiny miniature-style paintings, delicate balcony brackets and carved elephants at the entrance add to the effect. Part of the haveli is still a family home, which gives the visit a lived-in quality.

Look first at the facade. The two sides share the same basic outline but diverge in the details: the patterns of the balcony brackets, the carved flowers, the shapes of the windows. Stone elephants guard the entrance, and above them the upper floors step back in layers of jharokha balconies.

Local guides enjoy pointing out the places where the two carvers seem to have competed, and the differences are real enough to reward a slow look. The craft is extraordinary when you consider that the carving was done with simple hand tools on soft yellow sandstone.

Inside, the rooms that are open to visitors show painted walls, mirror work and small displays of family heirlooms. Miniature painting in this region often depicted the royal court, hunting scenes and festivals, and the better preserved panels give a sense of the colours that once filled every merchant house. Because the family still lives in part of the building, access can vary and some rooms may be closed, so treat the visit as a short, intimate stop rather than a long museum tour.

The haveli stands on a lane close to the fort and other mansions, which makes it easy to combine with a heritage walk. A good plan is to start with Patwon Ki Haveli, walk to Nathmal Ki Haveli, then continue to Salim Singh Ki Haveli, ending at the fort for lunch or a rooftop view. The whole circuit is compact and can be done in a morning at an easy pace, with breaks in cafes along the way.

Photography is popular here, and the best light falls on the facade in the late morning and again in the afternoon. The lane is narrow, so you may need patience to get a clear shot without people in the frame. If you hire a guide, ask about the history of the Diwan, the role of prime ministers in the Jaisalmer court and the way merchants and rulers shared power in a desert trading state.

Make the most of the visit by arriving with some context. Before you go, read a little about how Jaisalmer's prime ministers balanced the ambitions of the ruler and the merchants, because the house is a monument to that balance of power. After the haveli, a cup of tea in a nearby rooftop cafe gives you a place to look back over the lanes and compare what you have seen with the other mansions, which is the best way to spot how each family chose a different style to impress its neighbours.