Three days is the right amount of time to see the best of Kraków without rushing. The city is compact, the main sights are close together, and the best experiences are a mix of big headline attractions and slow time spent wandering. This plan puts the busiest sights early in the day, leaves room for long lunches, and finishes with a day of choices so you can tailor the trip to your interests. Book the timed tickets first, because they decide the shape of each day.
Day one: the Old Town
Start on the Main Market Square early, before the crowds, and walk around the Cloth Hall, the Town Hall Tower and the Gothic bulk of St Mary's Basilica. Time your visit to the basilica so that you see the carved altarpiece opened at midday, and listen for the bugle call played from the tower on the hour. Then go down beneath the square to the Rynek Underground, where a museum has been built around the remains of the medieval market. After lunch, walk to the Czartoryski Museum to see Leonardo's Lady with an Ermine, or to Collegium Maius, the oldest building of the Jagiellonian University. In the late afternoon follow the Planty, the green park that circles the Old Town, to the Florian Gate, then finish with dinner in a cellar restaurant.
Day two: Wawel, Kazimierz and Podgórze
Be at Wawel Hill when it opens, because the castle exhibitions and the cathedral are at their best in the morning. Take a guided tour of the State Rooms and the cathedral, then wander the courtyards and walk down to the riverside to see the dragon statue breathe fire. Have lunch on Kanonicza Street or in Kazimierz, then spend the afternoon in the old Jewish quarter, visiting a synagogue or the historic cemetery and walking Szeroka Street. If you have booked it, take the tram across the river in the late afternoon to Schindler's Factory, whose museum tells the story of the city under occupation. Return to Kazimierz for the evening, when its candlelit bars and cafes come alive, and try a zapiekanka, a long open sandwich, from a stall on Plac Nowy.
Day three: choose your adventure
The third day is for one of the day trips, or for a slower exploration of the city. The classic choice is the Wieliczka Salt Mine, a half-day outing that works in any weather and leaves time for the evening. If you want to understand the darkest chapter of the twentieth century, give the day to Auschwitz-Birkenau, which is demanding and best left as the only plan for that day. For a lighter alternative, spend the morning on the Kościuszko Mound for the best view of the city and the afternoon in Nowa Huta, the communist model town, or take a half-day trip to Ojców National Park for walking and fresh air. Art lovers can use the day for the Czartoryski Museum and the Cloth Hall gallery, followed by a leisurely lunch.
Practical tips
Wear comfortable shoes, because the old paving is uneven, and carry a layer even in summer. Most of the centre is pedestrian, and the walk between Wawel and the Main Market Square takes about fifteen minutes. Trams and taxis fill the gaps for the more distant sights. Many museums close on one day a week, often Monday, and some have a free day with limited tickets, so check the calendar before you set out. Cards are widely accepted, but carry a little cash for market stalls and small cafes. Book the big timed tickets, Wawel, Schindler's Factory and any day trips, before you travel.
Where to stay
For a three-day trip, the Old Town or the streets below Wawel are the best bases, because you can walk everywhere and return to your hotel for a rest. Hotel Stary and Hotel Copernicus give you history and a spa, while Radisson Blu and ibis offer convenience at a lower price. If you love the river, Sheraton Grand has castle views and is a short walk from both the square and Kazimierz.
If you have a fourth day
Add a second day trip, such as Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains, the painted village of Zalipie or the quieter Bochnia Salt Mine. If you have only two days, combine the Old Town and Wawel on day one, and Kazimierz with either Schindler's Factory or a half-day trip on day two. Whatever you choose, leave an hour or two free each day to sit in a cafe and watch the square, because that is the real pleasure of the city.
