Kutaisi Botanical Garden

The Kutaisi Botanical Garden is a green refuge on the slope above the city, about a kilometre from the central square. Its shaded paths wander among mature trees, flowering shrubs and collections of plants from the Caucasus and beyond, around seven hundred kinds in all, and there are benches, viewpoints and a pleasing sense of calm. The most unusual feature is a small chapel built inside the hollow trunk of an oak said to be around four hundred years old. A visit costs little and takes an hour or so. It is a pleasant break from sightseeing, especially on hot days, and a good spot for families or anyone who needs a quiet walk.

The garden was created in the nineteenth century and expanded through the twentieth, and it retains the feel of a landscaped park more than a formal botanical institute. Paths climb gently through stands of cedar, magnolia, bamboo and old plane trees, with spring flowers in March and April and strong colour in autumn. Information boards name some of the species, though not all are in English. The collection includes plants from the Black Sea region, Asia and the Mediterranean, reflecting the mild, humid climate of western Georgia, which allows a wide range to grow.

The oak-trunk chapel is a delightful curiosity. A huge old tree, hollowed by age, was converted into a small place of prayer, with an icon inside and candles lit by local visitors. It sits quietly among the trees, and it is respectful to be quiet and to dress modestly if you step inside. From various points on the hillside you can see over the city to Bagrati Cathedral and the hills beyond. Local families bring children to play on the lawns, and students read on benches, giving the garden a relaxed, unhurried feel.

Getting there is easy. The garden is about a fifteen to twenty minute walk from the centre, uphill in the last stretch, or a short taxi ride. Entry is inexpensive and opening hours vary by season, so check before you go. Facilities are simple, and it is best to bring water and wear comfortable shoes. The garden pairs well with a walk through the old town and with a visit to Bagrati Cathedral on the same morning. In summer it is cooler than the streets below, and in winter it is quiet and atmospheric.

If you are travelling with children, the garden offers space to run and fresh air after a long drive from the caves or the canyons. If you are travelling as a couple, an afternoon stroll followed by coffee in the old town is a gentle way to spend a few hours. And if you are a plant enthusiast, it is worth looking at the variety of Caucasian species, some of which are rarely seen elsewhere. It will not take more than a couple of hours, but it adds a restful note to a busy itinerary.

Bring a book or a picnic if the weather is good, since there are many quiet corners, and allow time for the slow climb rather than rushing it. The garden also makes a handy waypoint between the old town and the hilltop cathedral, so a loop that takes in both is easy to plan. Dogs, cyclists and pushchairs are common on the main paths, which are mostly well kept, although some side trails are steep or uneven after rain.