Every French city has a favourite park, and Lyon’s is the Parc de la Tête d’Or, a landscaped English-style garden laid out in the mid-19th century by the Swiss brothers Bühler and opened in 1857. It sits on the left bank of the Rhône north of the centre, and its name comes from a local legend about a golden head of Christ said to be buried somewhere nearby. Entry is free, which makes it one of the best-value outings in Lyon. At its heart is a large lake with an island, where you can rent a rowing boat in summer, surrounded by lawns, winding paths and mature trees. The botanical garden has historic glass greenhouses, the rose garden is at its best in late spring and early summer, and a small zoo, founded in 1858 and also free to visit, has a section called the African Plain with giraffes, lions and other animals. Families can find a playground, pony rides, a little train and mini-karting, while locals jog, cycle and picnic along the paths. The park has seven entrances and long opening hours, which stretch later in summer than in winter.
How to visit
The main entrance is the ornate iron gate known as the Porte des Enfants du Rhône, and the park can be reached by tram or bus from the centre, or by a pleasant walk or Vélo’v ride along the Rhône from the Pont Lafayette area. It opens early in the morning and closes in the evening, with later closing in summer than in winter. There is no entry charge for the park, and some paid activities, such as boat hire and rides, are run separately.
What to expect
Allow two hours for a loop of the lake with a stop at the zoo or greenhouses, or half a day with a picnic and a boat. The park is large, so wear comfortable shoes. Weekends and sunny afternoons draw crowds, and mornings are quiet. Cycling is popular on the main paths, and joggers share them, so watch for bikes.
Making the most of it
Buy bread, cheese and charcuterie at Les Halles Paul Bocuse or a neighbourhood market and picnic by the lake. Visit the rose garden in late spring or early summer, the greenhouses on a wet day, and the zoo with children in the morning when the animals are most active. In autumn the trees turn gold and the park is calm. It is also a good place to recharge between museum days.
A few extra ideas
The lake has an island that is a pleasant destination for a stroll, and the botanical garden’s collections change through the seasons, with summer bedding displays and tropical plants inside the glasshouses in winter. Running and cycling loops around the park are popular with locals, and Vélo’v stations are close to several entrances, which makes a one-way ride easy.
If you are travelling with a stroller, the main paths are flat and wide. On hot days the tree-lined avenues provide welcome shade, while in autumn the leaves make the park a good place for photographs. It is also a good place to watch how Lyonnais spend a Sunday: picnicking, playing boules and strolling.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided stroll through a large landscaped park with a boating lake, zoo, rose garden and greenhouses.
Best time
Morning for quiet paths and active animals, late spring for the roses, or a warm summer afternoon for boating.
How long
Two to four hours depending on how many corners you explore.
Tips
Bring a picnic, wear comfortable shoes and allow time for the lake loop.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Families, picnickers, runners and anyone who needs a green break from the city.
- Families
- A free zoo, a playground, pony rides and a little train make this one of the best family stops in Lyon.
- Couples
- Rent a rowing boat in summer or walk the lake at golden hour.
- Pair with
- A market picnic from Les Halles Paul Bocuse, or the Cité Internationale next door.
- Time needed
- Half a day with a picnic.
Good questions
Is the Parc de la Tête d’Or free?+
Yes, entry to the park is free, and so is the small zoo inside it. Boat rental and rides cost extra.
What can you do there?+
Walk, run, cycle, picnic, rent a boat in summer, visit the zoo, rose garden and greenhouses, or take children to the playground and little train.
When is the best time to visit?+
Late spring and early summer for the roses and boats, autumn for colour, and weekday mornings for quiet any time of year.
How do I get there from the centre?+
Take a tram or bus from the centre, or walk or cycle along the Rhône. The main gate faces the Rhône side of the park.
Who designed the park?+
The Swiss landscape architects Eugène and Denis Bühler designed it as an English-style garden, and it opened in 1857.
