Ribeiro Frio, the cold stream, sits in a cool, damp valley in the middle of Madeira, surrounded by dense laurel forest. It has long been one of the island’s favourite stopping places: a trout farm, a small cluster of restaurants and the starting point for several well-loved levada walks. The route from Ribeiro Frio to Portela follows the Levada do Furado, a channel that contours around the mountainside and gives long views over valleys, peaks and the Atlantic. Because it is a linear walk, it covers a lot of ground without retracing your steps, and a guided option with transport at each end makes it an easy and satisfying day on foot.
The route
From Ribeiro Frio the path heads out along the levada through tall tree heath and laurel, with the sound of running water beside you. Early in the walk a short side trail leads to the Balcões viewpoint, a rock platform with a famous panorama over the Ribeira da Metade valley, the central peaks and, with luck, the coast.
Back on the main levada, the walk continues for many kilometres, passing through patches of forest, open slopes with wide views and a few short tunnels and exposed sections, before reaching the village of Portela on the east side. The total distance is around eleven kilometres, and the walk takes most people between four and five hours, including stops.
Difficulty
The path is mostly level and graded as moderate, but some stretches are narrow, with a drop on one side and a handrail in places. The weather decides the experience. In cloud the forest is moody and the views disappear, and in clear air the panoramas are superb.
Wear shoes with good grip, bring a waterproof layer, a hat and plenty of water, and take a head torch or phone light for the short tunnels. The trail may require registration and a fee for non-residents like other classified routes, so check the current requirements or book a guided option that handles them.
Making the most of it
A linear walk needs transport at both ends, so most visitors join a tour or arrange a taxi. A good plan is to start in the morning, spend an hour at Balcões, then continue at a steady pace and finish with lunch in Portela or a short drive to the east coast.
If you want to see the trout farm, arrive early or finish with a late lunch in Ribeiro Frio before heading back. Combine the walk with a visit to Santana or Pico do Arieiro if you are on a full-day tour, and keep a spare day for the weather.
The trout farm and the village
Ribeiro Frio is also a handy place to eat, with small restaurants serving local fish, including trout from the nearby farm, as well as soups and stews that suit the cool air. The farm itself is an easy short stop, where you can see the fish tanks and the stream.
If you are driving, arrive early to find parking, because tour buses fill the area at midday. After the walk, Portela has viewpoints looking out over the east coast, and the road onwards leads towards Santana, Machico and the coast.
What to expect
The experience
A one-way levada walk of about eleven kilometres from Ribeiro Frio past the Balcões viewpoint to Portela, with guided transport options.
Best time
Clear mornings give the best views, though the forest is atmospheric in mist too.
How long
Plan on four to five hours of walking, plus time for the viewpoint and transport.
Tips
Bring grippy shoes, a waterproof layer, water, a hat and a head torch for short tunnels.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Walkers who want a long, scenic route without retracing their steps.
- Families
- Suitable for fit older children, but the length and drops make it unsuitable for small ones.
- Couples
- A big-sky walk to share, followed by a relaxed lunch.
- Pair with
- Santana, Pico do Arieiro or the Balcões viewpoint on the same day.
- Time needed
- A full morning or day.
Good questions
How long is the Ribeiro Frio to Portela walk?+
It is roughly eleven kilometres and takes most walkers four to five hours, including stops at the viewpoints.
Where is the Balcões viewpoint?+
It is a short side trail near the start at Ribeiro Frio, leading to a rock platform with a wide panorama of the central mountains.
Is the walk difficult?+
It is graded as moderate. The path is mostly level, but it is long, with narrow stretches and some exposed sections, so decent shoes and a reasonable level of fitness are needed.
How do I get back to Ribeiro Frio?+
Because the route is one-way, you need transport at the end. Guided tours provide it, or you can arrange a taxi.
Do I need to register for the walk?+
Classified trails can require registration and a fee for non-residents, so check the current rules or book a guided option that handles it.
