Marseille Old Town Food Tour

Marseille eats the way it lives: loudly, generously and with influences from every shore of the Mediterranean. Greek founders brought olives and wine, Italian immigrants brought pasta and pizza, and waves of arrivals from Armenia, North Africa and the Levant added spices, pastries and street food, all layered over the Provençal base of olive oil, garlic, tomatoes and fish. An old town food tour is the quickest way to read that history on a plate. A local guide leads you through the streets around the Vieux-Port and the old quarter, stopping at bakeries, delicatessens, small restaurants and market stalls where the owners know the guide by name. Typical tastes of the city include panisses, the chickpea fritters of the Vieux-Port, navettes, the boat-shaped biscuits flavoured with orange blossom, tapenade, olive oil, cheeses, charcuterie and pastis or wine, although the exact stops are chosen by the operator. Between tastings, the guide explains the story of the neighbourhood, the meaning of dishes such as bouillabaisse and aïoli, and the traditions that surround them. It is a smart first-day activity because it shows you where to return and what to order, and it makes a satisfying lunch.

’ + ’What to expect: the streets are cobbled and sloped, so wear comfortable shoes. Alcohol may be served at some stops, and non-alcoholic alternatives are usually available on request. Dietary restrictions, including vegetarian, gluten-free and allergies, should be mentioned when you book, because local specialities are heavy on fish, wheat and dairy and the stops have limited flexibility. Tours go ahead in light rain, with some indoor stops.

’ + ’Making the most of it: choose a lunchtime departure so the tasting replaces a meal, and plan a lighter dinner. Take notes of your favourite places, because the guide will often suggest where to return for a full meal. If you want to see a more alternative side of the city, pair the tour with the Cours Julien food walk on another day.

Fish is the speciality, so remember that restaurants serve bouillabaisse by advance order. A walk up to Notre-Dame de la Garde afterwards helps with digestion, and the view is worth the effort.

’ + ’Planning notes: the tour is best done early in a stay, because it gives you a map of the places you will want to return to. Come with a small appetite for dinner, wear shoes that handle steps and cobbles, and bring a reusable bottle for water between stops. Cash can be handy for extra purchases at the bakeries and delicatessens. If you are travelling in a group of friends, ask whether the operator can arrange a private departure, and check the language of the commentary if English is important to you.