Mendoza eats and drinks well, and a first visit is as much about the table as the sights. The region combines Argentine beef and open-fire cooking with olive oil, fruit and vegetables from the irrigated valleys, and of course a wine list that runs from everyday Malbec to some of the best bottles in South America. This guide explains what to order, how a typical meal unfolds and how to fit tasting into your days without overdoing it.
Start with the wine
Malbec is the grape that made Mendoza famous, and it is worth tasting in several places, because its character changes with altitude. In Luján de Cuyo it tends to be ripe and plush, in Maipú warmer and rounder, and in the high Uco Valley fresher and more mineral. You will also find Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Bonarda, Torrontés from further north and excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the cool, high vineyards. Do not be afraid to ask staff what they would pour with a dish, and consider a flight of a single grape from several places to learn what altitude does.
Asado is the centrepiece
An asado is both a method and a social event: cuts of beef, sausages and sometimes offal grilled slowly over wood or coals, served with salads, bread and a sauce such as chimichurri. A traditional parrilla, or grill restaurant, will bring a mixed platter, and ordering one for the table is the easiest way to taste several cuts. Vacío, ribs and ojo de bife are popular, and you can ask how well-done you want your meat. Vegetarians can find grilled vegetables, provoleta cheese and good salads, but should say so in advance in more traditional places. Many horseback and winery experiences end with an asado, which is often the best you will eat.
Empanadas and snacks
Empanadas are the everyday food of Argentina, and the Mendoza version is usually baked and filled with beef, onion and spices, often with olive and egg. They are cheap, filling and perfect for lunch on a travelling day. Look for bakeries and small shops that sell them by the dozen. Other local treats include sandwiches de miga, thin crustless sandwiches served at teatime, alfajores with dulce de leche and the region's olive oils, jams and dried fruit, which make good gifts. A cooking class is a hands-on way to learn how to make empanadas and a sauce, and it makes a good break from tasting.
Winery lunches
A lunch at a bodega is one of the great pleasures of Mendoza, and many estates run restaurants with multi-course menus paired with their wines. Book ahead, because tables are limited, especially in the Uco Valley and in the harvest months. Plan on two to three hours, and avoid scheduling another tasting straight afterwards. If you want to splurge, choose one famous estate for lunch and keep your other days simple. For budgets, many smaller bodegas offer a picnic or a simple lunch for much less, and a bike day in Maipú often includes one.
Eating in the city
Mendoza's centre has plenty of restaurants, wine bars and cafés, many around the plazas and along the pedestrian street. Dinner starts late, usually after nine, and the best places fill up, so book ahead on weekends. Lunch is a long meal, and shops often close for a midday break. Tipping is customary, usually around ten percent, and many restaurants add a small cover charge for bread. If you want a lighter evening, order a few starters and a glass of local wine at a wine bar, where staff will usually offer tasting flights.
Tasting well
Pours are small, but they add up. Eat before and during tastings, drink water between wines and use the spit bucket if you are visiting several places. Never drive after a tasting: use a driver, a tour, a bike day on quiet roads or a taxi. If you plan to ship wine home, ask the bodega about shipping, and remember that carrying a few bottles in checked luggage is often simpler.
Putting it together
A good food-focused day pairs a morning tasting with a long lunch, an afternoon rest and a light dinner. A good week mixes a splurge lunch, a casual asado, a cooking class and a few evenings of wine bars and empanadas. If you love food, sleep in a hotel with a good restaurant, or pick a vineyard stay where dinner is part of the experience. Above all, give meals the time they deserve, because in Mendoza the table is where a trip comes together.
