Ano Mera is the other Mykonos, a farming village in the middle of the island about eight kilometres from Chora, and the second-largest settlement after the town. Its heart is a broad pedestrian square lined with cafés and tavernas, known for spit-roasted and grilled meats, and directly in front of it stands the all-white monastery of Panagia Tourliani. Two monks from Paros founded the monastery in 1542, looking for a safe place away from the pirate-haunted coast, on the site of an older small church. Its most precious treasure is a miraculous icon of the Virgin, considered the island’s greatest spiritual treasure, and the monastery is known for its well-preserved bell tower. Every year during Lent the icon is carried in procession to Chora and back, and the monastery hosts the island’s biggest village festival in August. Ano Mera stays lived-in all year, which makes it one of the best places to see everyday island life in the quiet season.
How it works
Ano Mera is a short drive or taxi ride from Chora, and local buses link the village with town, though winter timetables are limited. The square and the monastery courtyard are free to visit. The monastery is an active religious site, so opening of the church interior varies; visit respectfully, with shoulders and knees covered.
What to expect
A real village rather than a resort, with a kopanisti workshop making the spicy local cheese, old houses, tavernas and a few shops. In summer the tavernas are busy at lunch and in the evening; in winter some take a break, but the square is never completely shut down, because this is where islanders live year-round. Combine it with a drive to the quiet beaches of the northeast or to Fokos on the north coast when the weather is fine.
Making the most of it
Come for a long lunch, which is when the tavernas are busiest with locals, and try grilled meats and kopanisti with bread. Look at the bell tower and the details of the monastery’s white façade, and step inside quietly if the church is open. A car or scooter makes it easy to add a scenic loop around the middle of the island.
What to expect
The experience
A free visit to an inland village square and the whitewashed Panagia Tourliani monastery, usually combined with a long taverna lunch.
Best time
Late morning into lunchtime, when the monastery is calm and the tavernas fill with local families.
How long
Two to three hours including lunch, or under an hour for the monastery and square alone.
Tips
Dress modestly for the monastery, check bus times before relying on public transport in winter, and order kopanisti with your meal.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Travellers who want to see how islanders live, and anyone who enjoys village food and church architecture.
- Families
- The pedestrian square is safe for children to roam, and a relaxed taverna lunch suits all ages.
- Couples
- An unhurried lunch on the square, then a drive to a quiet beach, makes a lovely winter day.
- Pair with
- The quiet north coast beaches such as Fokos, or sunset back at Little Venice on a full island loop.
- Time needed
- Half a day with travel.
Good questions
How far is Ano Mera from Mykonos Town?+
It is around eight kilometres inland from Chora. A taxi takes about fifteen minutes, and local buses run between the two, with fewer departures in winter.
When was Panagia Tourliani founded?+
The monastery was founded in 1542 by two monks from Paros on the site of an older small church. It holds the island’s most revered icon of the Virgin.
Is Ano Mera worth visiting in winter?+
Yes. It is a lived-in village that stays active year-round, so it shows the island’s everyday life when the resorts are closed.
What should I eat in Ano Mera?+
The tavernas on the square are known for spit-roasted and grilled Mykonian meats. Try kopanisti, the island’s spicy, tangy cheese, which is made in the village.
Can I go inside the monastery?+
The courtyard is usually accessible, and the church opens at varying times because it is an active religious site. Dress modestly and be respectful of services.
