Panagia Paraportiani is the church everyone photographs and few understand. It stands at the northern end of Little Venice in Kastro, the oldest part of Chora, where the medieval castle once stood, and it is not one church but five. Four chapels sit at ground level, dedicated to Agios Efstathios, Agioi Anargyroi, Agios Sozon and Agia Anastasia, and above them rises a fifth, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Construction began in the fifteenth century and continued over the following centuries, and the result is an irregular, softly rounded mass of whitewash that looks more like a sculpture than a building. Its curves seem to change shape as you walk around it, and at sunset the walls glow pink and gold. The name is usually explained by its position beside the side gate of the old castle. It is free to see from outside at any time, and it is one of the few headline sights of Mykonos that is completely unaffected by the season.
How it works
Paraportiani is free to visit and sits on a small open terrace above the sea, a few steps from Little Venice and a short walk from the Old Port. The exterior is the attraction for most visitors. The church is still in religious use, and the interior opens irregularly, so if the door is open, step in quietly and respectfully, with shoulders covered.
Season by season
In summer the terrace is crowded around sunset, so go early or late in the day. In winter this is an ideal sight because it is outdoors, free and never closes. With fewer people around you can walk all the way round the building and see how the chapels fit together, which is hard in summer when the terrace is crowded. On grey days the white walls look almost luminous against the sky, and after rain the stone paving can be slippery.
Making the most of it
Walk around the whole building rather than taking one photo from the front, because the shape changes completely from each side. Come early in the morning for empty views or late in the day for warm light, and then continue along the waterfront to Little Venice and up to the windmills. The surrounding Kastro lanes are some of the most atmospheric in Chora.
What to expect
The experience
A free outdoor visit to a whitewashed complex of five churches on a terrace above the sea, with the interior open only occasionally.
Best time
Early morning for an empty terrace, or the hour before sunset when the walls turn warm and golden.
How long
Thirty minutes to walk around it and take photos, longer if you explore the Kastro lanes around it.
Tips
Walk the full circle of the building to see how the five chapels fit together, and dress modestly if you step inside.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Architecture lovers, photographers and anyone exploring Chora on foot.
- Families
- A quick, free stop that children enjoy circling, though the terrace edges above the sea need watching.
- Couples
- Pair it with sunset at Little Venice a few steps away.
- Pair with
- Little Venice and the windmills, and a walk through the Kastro lanes.
- Time needed
- Thirty minutes to an hour.
Good questions
Why does Paraportiani look so unusual?+
It is made up of five churches built together over several centuries: four chapels at ground level and a fifth above them. The layers of whitewash have softened the edges into a single sculptural shape.
Can you go inside Panagia Paraportiani?+
The church is still in religious use and opens irregularly. Most visitors see it from the outside, which is where its beauty lies.
Is there an entry fee?+
No, it is free to visit. Please be respectful, as it is a place of worship.
Where is Paraportiani?+
It stands in the Kastro quarter at the northern end of Little Venice, a short walk from the Old Port of Mykonos Town. Follow the waterfront from Little Venice and you will reach it in a few minutes.
How old is Panagia Paraportiani?+
Construction began in the fifteenth century and the complex grew over the following centuries. That is why each side of the building looks so different.
