Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is one of the most photographed small towns in Germany and the highlight of the Romantic Road. Perched above the Tauber valley, it is surrounded by a nearly complete medieval wall and filled with half-timbered houses, cobbled lanes, fountains and towers. It escaped the worst of the war's destruction, although a bombing raid in 1945 did damage part of the town, and what you see today is largely faithful to the historic image. From Nuremberg it is an easy day trip, taking about an hour to ninety minutes by train with a change, or less by car. A guided tour such as a medieval musical walk adds storytelling and songs, and explains the town's history, from its rise as a free imperial city to its decline after the Thirty Years' War, which preserved it from rebuilding.

The main highlights are all within the walls. The Marktplatz and the Town Hall tower offer the classic view over the red roofs, the Plönlein, a tiny junction with two gates and a crooked house, is the most photographed corner, and the Church of St. Jakob holds Tilman Riemenschneider's carved Altar of the Holy Blood. The Medieval Crime Museum, the Christmas museum and the shop of Käthe Wohlfahrt, which sells Christmas decorations all year, are the best-known indoor stops.

Walking the town wall, which is partly covered and free to climb in sections, gives different views of the rooftops and the Tauber valley. Evening tours led by the Night Watchman are a popular tradition, and they combine humour with local history.

Timing is important. Rothenburg is crowded from late morning to mid-afternoon in summer, when coach tours arrive, so an early start or a late stay brings the town back to a human scale. In December the Christmas market makes the town glow, but it also draws crowds. Weekdays are quieter than weekends. Plan for four to six hours on site, with a meal in a Franconian inn and time for a wall walk. Wear comfortable shoes for cobbles and bring a layer for the wind that comes through the gates.

Getting there by train from Nuremberg means changing at Steinach, and the final section runs on a small branch line, so check connections both ways and note the last return. Driving is straightforward but parking is outside the walls. A guided tour from the town itself gives a good introduction, and a private or small-group day trip from Nuremberg removes the logistics. Many visitors combine Rothenburg with Bamberg across two separate days, and either works well as a break from the city's heavier history.

A few small decisions improve the day. Buy a rail ticket that covers the regional network, since fares can be good value for groups, and check whether your accommodation offers a regional guest card. Eat away from the main square, where side lanes serve the same dishes at friendlier prices, and try the local pastry called Schneeball, a ball of shortcrust dough that is sweet and dusty with sugar.

If you can, linger until the coaches leave and enjoy the lamplit streets, because the town after six in the evening is a different and much more magical place.