Coachella Valley Preserve

The Coachella Valley Preserve is one of the best places to see the desert as it looked before golf courses and subdivisions, and it is only about ten miles east of Palm Springs. The preserve is managed by the Bureau of Land Management with the Center for Natural Lands Management, and its heart is Thousand Palms Oasis, a stand of native California fan palms that exists because the San Andreas Fault dams groundwater and pushes it toward the surface. A trail of about a mile loops past the oasis and its pools, which hold endangered desert pupfish, a tiny fish. Beyond the palms the preserve spreads across sand dunes, mesquite and creosote flats, and rocky ridges with long views over the valley. It is the home of the Coachella Valley fringe-toed lizard, a rare species that seems to swim through loose sand to escape predators and summer heat. More than 180 bird species have been recorded, along with bobcats, jackrabbits, sidewinders and many other desert animals. A visitor center and several trails make it easy to choose a short stroll or a longer hike, and horse riders have their own routes.

For many visitors the oasis walk is the main event, and it is easy: the mile-long trail passes the palm groves and the pools, with interpretive signs that explain how the fault creates this water. It is a good place to understand the geology you may have heard about on a San Andreas Fault tour, and to compare it with the larger palm canyons at Indian Canyons.

The oasis is shaded, the palm fronds rustle, and in spring and fall songbirds gather, so it is also an excellent spot for casual birdwatching. If you want more distance, other trails climb into the surrounding hills and lead through dune country that photographers love in early morning and late afternoon light.

Season matters. Summer is very hot and the preserve warns visitors to come prepared, so in the warmest months go at first light, carry plenty of water and avoid the middle of the day. Spring and fall are the best times for songbirds, and from spring through fall the fish are easiest to see in the pools, while reptiles are most active in summer.

Winter is the most comfortable for hiking. Hours, fees and rules are set by the preserve and can change, so check with the Center for Natural Lands Management or call the preserve before you drive out; the number is 760-343-1234. Wear sturdy shoes, bring a hat and sunscreen, and keep to marked trails to protect the fragile dune habitat and the wildlife that depends on it.

Reaching it is straightforward from Palm Springs: take Interstate 10 to the Bob Hope exit, head north, then follow Varner Road and Ramon Road east to Thousand Palms Canyon Drive and drive north about two miles to the entrance. The preserve fits neatly into a half-day, and it combines well with a jeep or bike tour along the fault, a lunch in Palm Desert and an afternoon at the Living Desert. It is especially good for families who like animals and gentle walks, for birdwatchers, for photographers and for anyone who wants to see a real desert oasis without a long drive or a technical hike.