Piazza dell’Anfiteatro is the most unusual square in Tuscany and the one that visitors to Lucca remember best. It is not round or rectangular but a perfect oval, because it follows the outline of a Roman amphitheatre built here in the first or second century AD, outside what were then the city walls. The arena could hold around ten thousand spectators, and it had two stacked rows of fifty arches and twenty tiers of seating. After the Roman world collapsed, the building fell into ruin and was used for centuries as a quarry for stone, and in the Middle Ages the area was known as the caves. Slowly, houses, workshops and shops were built into the ruins, reusing the curve of the old walls, until the arena had been turned inside out and become a ring of homes around a central space.
How it became a square
In 1830 the architect Lorenzo Nottolini redesigned the area, demolishing the buildings in the middle to create the open piazza we see now and laying out the road that circles it, Via dell’Anfiteatro. The old Roman remains now lie about three metres below the present ground level, but the oval shape is unmistakable, and the curved facades, painted in warm shades of ochre and rust, still follow the line of the ancient seating. Four narrow passages lead in through the ring of houses, so you come upon the open space suddenly, which adds to the surprise.
What to do here
There is nothing to book and nothing to pay for. Walk in from any of the entrances, stand in the middle and turn slowly around to take in the full circle. Walk around the edge to look at the arched ground floors and the remains of the old stonework in the walls.
The square is lined with cafes, restaurants and small shops, and many of them put tables out in the middle in good weather, so it is one of the nicest places in the city for a long lunch or an aperitivo. In winter the tables move indoors, but the square is quiet and atmospheric and you often have it nearly to yourself.
Getting there and combining
The piazza sits in the northern part of the old town, only a couple of minutes from Via Fillungo and about five minutes on foot from the Guinigi Tower and the Torre delle Ore. It is a natural stop between climbing those towers and visiting the church of San Frediano, which is a short walk away. Many visitors pass through several times in a day, in the morning for coffee and again in the evening when the light turns golden.
Tips
Come early in the morning or after dark for the calmest atmosphere, and be aware that the cafes on the oval are priced for the setting, so step into a side street if you want a cheaper meal. Look up to see the flower-filled balconies and rooftop terraces, and try to spot the places where Roman stone is still visible in the foundations.
Extra context
The square is also a stage for local life. Residents live in the apartments above the shops, so you will see washing, flower pots and open windows, and on summer evenings the space fills with music and conversation. Respect the fact that people live here by keeping noise low late at night, and take a moment to notice how the curve of the buildings tells the story of a Roman arena that became a neighbourhood.
What to expect
The experience
A free walk-in visit to an oval square built on a Roman amphitheatre, surrounded by cafes, restaurants and small shops.
Best time
Early morning for quiet and soft light, or early evening for golden light and an aperitivo.
How long
Thirty minutes to look around, or an hour or more with a coffee or a meal.
Tips
Walk all the way around the oval, look for the Roman stonework in the walls and step into a side street for better-value food.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Everyone who comes to Lucca, as it is the most distinctive and photogenic square in the city.
- Families
- Traffic-free and open, with room for children to roam while you sit at a table.
- Couples
- The best place in Lucca for a lingering lunch or an evening drink in a beautiful setting.
- Pair with
- The Guinigi Tower, the Torre delle Ore and San Frediano, all a few minutes away on foot.
- Time needed
- Half an hour to look around, or longer for lunch.
Good questions
Why is Piazza dell’Anfiteatro oval?+
It follows the outline of a Roman amphitheatre built in the first or second century AD. Houses were built into the ruins over the centuries and kept the curve.
Is Piazza dell’Anfiteatro free to visit?+
Yes, it is an open public square with no entrance fee.
Can you see the Roman remains?+
The Roman remains lie about three metres below present ground level, but the oval shape and some old stonework in the surrounding buildings still show the line of the arena.
How many people did the amphitheatre hold?+
It could hold around ten thousand spectators, with twenty tiers of seating and two rows of fifty arches.
When is the best time to visit?+
Early morning or early evening, when the light is soft and the square is quieter. Midday can be busy with tour groups and lunch crowds.
