Lucca has many churches, and San Frediano is the one to see if you have time for only one besides the cathedral. It stands in the north of the old town, a few minutes from Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, and its tall facade, topped with a great gold mosaic, glows when the afternoon sun hits it. The basilica is traditionally linked with Bishop Frediano, who is said to have been of Irish origin and to have led the church of Lucca in the sixth century. It was once also dedicated to San Vincenzo and had a convent beside it. Despite many later changes, the medieval layout of the building survives, with a long nave, rows of columns and a calm, spacious interior that feels very different from the busier cathedral.
The mosaic
The huge facade mosaic is the first thing to see. It was made partly by artists influenced by Byzantine art and partly by craftsmen trained in the local Berlinghieri workshop, and it shows Christ ascending in a golden field. The lower part of the facade is plain stone, which makes the glittering upper part stand out even more. The tall bell tower beside the church is also a landmark of the old-town skyline.
Inside
The baptismal font is one of the highlights, with notable Romanesque sculptures carved around it, and the side aisles are lined with decorated chapels built by noble families over the centuries. The chapel of Saint Zita is a special place of pilgrimage, because her body rests there.
Zita was a servant who became Lucca’s most beloved saint, and tradition says that a bell dated 1223 rang by itself to mark both her birth and her death. Local people still visit her chapel, so keep voices low and remember that this is a place of worship.
The bell tower climb
Since the middle of 2023 visitors have been able to climb the bell tower, which is about fifty-five metres tall and gives a view over Lucca’s historic centre and the plain beyond. It is a good alternative to the Guinigi Tower and the Torre delle Ore if the queues are long, and from this northern side you can look across to the other two towers. Check at the church for current arrangements and any fee for the climb.
Practical information
The church is open daily, but visits are not allowed for about half an hour before a Mass until it ends, so check the Mass times and plan around them. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered. It is a short walk from Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, and combines well with a stroll along the quiet streets of the northern old town. A good route is cathedral in the morning, lunch on the Anfiteatro, then San Frediano in the afternoon light, when the mosaic is at its brightest.
Planning tip
San Frediano is a working church as well as a monument, so keep photography discreet and avoid walking around during a service. It is a good place to slow down after the busier sights, and the quiet nave is a welcome contrast with the shopping streets. If you are interested in sculpture, take a few extra minutes at the font and at the carved details of the capitals, which reward close attention.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided visit to a Romanesque basilica, with the mosaic facade, the font and the chapel of Saint Zita, plus an optional bell tower climb.
Best time
Afternoon, when the sun lights the gold mosaic on the facade, and outside Mass times.
How long
Thirty to sixty minutes, longer if you climb the bell tower.
Tips
Cover shoulders and knees, check Mass times before you go and look closely at the Romanesque font.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Visitors interested in medieval art and architecture, and anyone who wants a quieter church than the cathedral.
- Families
- The story of Saint Zita and the bell that rang by itself is a good one for children, and the tower climb adds adventure.
- Couples
- A calm, atmospheric interior and a golden facade at late afternoon make a lovely short stop.
- Pair with
- Piazza dell’Anfiteatro for lunch, then the Guinigi Tower or the Torre delle Ore.
- Time needed
- About forty-five minutes, or an hour and a half with the bell tower.
Good questions
What is San Frediano famous for?+
Its large gold mosaic facade, its Romanesque baptismal font and the chapel holding the body of Saint Zita, the patron saint of Lucca’s servants.
Can you climb the bell tower of San Frediano?+
Yes. Since June 2023 visitors have been able to climb the bell tower, which is about fifty-five metres tall and offers views over the historic centre.
Is San Frediano free to enter?+
Entering the church itself is generally free, but check on the day for any fee or arrangement for the bell tower and special areas.
Can you visit during Mass?+
No. Visits are not allowed for about half an hour before a Mass until it ends, so plan your visit around the service times.
Who was Saint Zita?+
Zita was a Lucca servant who became the city’s most loved saint. Her body lies in a chapel in San Frediano, and tradition says a bell dated 1223 rang by itself at her birth and death.
