Trani, the Cathedral on the Sea

Trani is one of the most elegant small cities on the Adriatic, and its cathedral is the reason many people come. The Cattedrale di San Nicola Pellegrino rises from an open waterfront esplanade in pale local limestone, with a tall bell tower, a high Romanesque facade and the sea lapping just beyond. It was built from the late 11th century onwards and is dedicated to a young Greek pilgrim who became the town's patron saint. Around it, the old town is a calm network of white lanes, small churches and palazzi, and the harbour is lined with fishing boats, cafes and restaurants serving the day's catch. Trani is far quieter than Bari or Polignano, which is a large part of its appeal. You can walk from the station to the cathedral in about twenty minutes, spend a morning exploring the old town, and still have time for a long seafood lunch beside the water.

The cathedral is built in tiers, and the plan is unusual: a crypt, a lower church and an upper church, so you can descend through different periods of the building. Visitors admire the carved portal, the tall nave and the sense of space inside, and the bell tower stands apart from the main body of the church, rising above the harbour.

The exact times when each part is open vary, and services take priority over sightseeing, so dress modestly and allow some flexibility. Walk around the outside as well, because the apse and the sea setting are what make the building so photogenic.

Near the cathedral stands the Swabian castle, another of the fortresses linked with Emperor Frederick II, which is entered with a ticket and is used for exhibitions. The old Jewish quarter, the Giudecca, holds small synagogues that recall a long Jewish presence in the town, and the lanes around Piazza Mazzini and the harbour are good for slow wandering.

A guided walking tour adds context that is hard to pick up alone, especially on the stories of the cathedral, the castle and the Jewish quarter, and it makes it easier to see the highlights in a short visit. Trani is simple to reach from Bari by regional train in a little under an hour, and many visitors combine it with a trip to Castel del Monte, which lies inland not far away. A half day is enough for the cathedral, the harbour and lunch, and a full day lets you add the castle and a slow afternoon on the quay.

Wear comfortable shoes for the stone paving and bring a hat in summer, when the esplanade has little shade. If you have time, walk out along the harbour wall toward the lighthouse end, where anglers sit and the cathedral is framed against the sky, and stay for an aperitivo as the lamps come on. The town also has a lively evening promenade, so a late afternoon arrival is just as rewarding as a morning one.