Rhodes is a large island, about eighty kilometres from tip to tip, and its best sights lie outside the capital. The good news is that the island is easy to explore in day trips from Rhodes Town, and the roads are well signed. This guide lays out the two classic routes, along the east and west coasts, with notes on how to travel, what to combine and how the seasons affect each trip.
The east coast route
The east coast is the sunnier, busier side, with the island's best beaches and its most famous village. Leave Rhodes Town and head south. About ten kilometres along, the Art Deco rotunda and colonnades of Kallithea Springs stand beside a clear cove that is good for swimming and snorkelling. A short distance further on is Anthony Quinn Bay, a small turquoise cove. A little beyond them, a turn inland leads to the Seven Springs, a shady, wooded valley where a stream runs through a tunnel and a small lake, a cool and green contrast to the coast, and one of the best walks on the island in warm weather. The road then continues to Lindos, roughly an hour from the capital, where a whitewashed village climbs to the acropolis. A full day on this route could include Kallithea in the morning, the Seven Springs for a walk, lunch in Lindos and the acropolis in the late afternoon, though many people prefer to give Lindos a day of its own.
The west coast route
The west is quieter, windier and less developed, and it rewards those with a little time. Head out of town along the coast road and make your first stop at Filerimos hill, the old acropolis of Ialysos, with its monastery, cloister and a monumental cross that overlooks the sea. Continue south to Ancient Kameiros, the hillside Greek city on the coast, where you can walk the streets, the square and the great cistern in about an hour. A short drive further south is Kritinia Castle, a ruined Knights' fortress with a fine gateway and a view toward Halki. The road then runs on to Monolithos Castle, a fortress on a sheer rock above the sea, which is the highlight and the best place to be at sunset. The drive back to Rhodes Town takes well over an hour, so check daylight hours and avoid the mountain roads after dark if you are not used to them.
A boat day
For a change from the road, the high-speed boat to Symi sails in the warm months and gives a day in a pastel-coloured harbour town with a swim stop on the way. Sailings depend on the weather and the season, so choose an option with free cancellation and keep the day flexible. Swimming cruises along the east coast also stop at the bays and caves in summer.
How to get around
You have three options. A hire car gives the most freedom and is the best way to combine stops, such as Kameiros, Kritinia and Monolithos, which have almost no public transport. The roads are good, but parking in Lindos is limited, and mountain roads are narrow, so take your time. Organised day tours are the easiest choice, since they cover the main sights with a guide and no driving, and the best of them combine several stops. Public buses connect Rhodes Town with Lindos and some coastal villages, but they run on thin timetables in winter, and they do not reach places like Monolithos. Taxis are practical for short trips, such as Kallithea or Monte Smith, and can be hired for a half day by arrangement.
Choosing by season
In summer, start early, carry water and plan for swimming. In spring and autumn, the walks, ruins and castles are at their best. In winter, the coast is quiet and beautiful, and the sites at Filerimos, Kameiros and the castles are open, though the seasonal beach services, boat trips and the Valley of the Butterflies are not. Always check opening hours for the sites that charge admission, because they run shorter hours between November and March and close on one day each week.
Where to stay
All of these trips start and end in Rhodes Town. A base in the Old Town makes an early start easy, since you can be on the road within minutes, while a hotel with parking, such as Rodos Park Suites and Spa, is handy if you are hiring a car. Esperia City Hotel in the modern town is a practical choice for groups, with an elevator and a 24-hour front desk.
