Three days is the ideal length for a first visit to Rhodes. It is long enough to see the medieval city properly, to reach Lindos without rushing and to explore the quieter west coast, and short enough that you do not need to worry about running out of things to do. The plan below puts the three big areas of the island on three separate days, so that each one gets your full attention. Swap the days around to suit the weather, since the Old Town works in almost any conditions, while the coast is best on a clear day.
Day one: the Old Town
Start early at the Sea Gate and walk up Sokratous Street through the old bazaar, turning off into the lanes of the Jewish quarter, where the Square of the Jewish Martyrs has a seahorse fountain and a few cafes. Aim to arrive at the Palace of the Grand Master soon after it opens, when the courtyard is quiet, and allow an hour to an hour and a half for the mosaics and the state rooms. Walk down the Street of the Knights afterwards to see the inns of the Order's national groups, then finish at the Archaeological Museum in the old Hospital of the Knights. Have lunch in the lanes a street or two away from the busiest square, then spend the afternoon on the walls and at Mandraki harbour, where the bronze deer stand on their columns. In the late afternoon, take a taxi or a thirty-minute walk up to Monte Smith for the ancient stadium and the temple columns, and stay for the sunset. Come back into the Old Town for dinner, because the lanes are at their best after dark.
Day two: the east coast and Lindos
Head south along the east coast road. If you have a car, stop first at Kallithea Springs, where the rotunda and galleries look best in the soft morning light, and take a swim in the clear cove if the season suits. A little further on is Anthony Quinn Bay, a small turquoise cove that is lovely for a short stop. Then continue to Lindos, about an hour from Rhodes Town, and climb to the acropolis before the heat and the tour groups build up. The path winds up through the whitewashed village, and at the top a Hellenistic stoa and a temple of Athena look out over the sea and the sheltered harbour of St Paul's Bay. Wander the lanes of the village, have lunch in a courtyard and, if you have time, swim at the beach below the acropolis. Without a car, an organised Lindos tour or the public bus makes the same day easy, although you will have less freedom to stop at the bays.
Day three: the west coast
The west of the island is wilder and much quieter. Begin at Ancient Kameiros, the hillside Greek town that was one of the three original city-states of Rhodes, and allow about an hour to walk through the streets, the square and the great cistern. A short drive further south brings you to Kritinia Castle, a ruined Knights' fortress with a fine gateway and a view of the island of Halki. Break for lunch at a village taverna and then continue to Monolithos Castle, perched on its sheer rock above the sea. Climb up in the late afternoon and stay for the sunset, which is one of the finest in the Aegean. Allow time for the drive back, which takes over an hour. If you would rather not drive, a west coast day tour covers Kameiros and several other stops, and you can still add Monolithos separately if you have a car one evening.
If you have more time or different tastes
The Symi boat trip is a good swap for day two or three in the warm months, and the Seven Springs walk and Filerimos hill are easy additions in the cooler seasons. If you are visiting between May and October, the Valley of the Butterflies is a restful morning for families. In winter, when boats and beach services slow down, give extra time to the Old Town and the museums, and note that the Palace and the Archaeological Museum close on Tuesdays.
Where to base yourself
All three days start and end in Rhodes Town, so the key choice is between sleeping inside the walls and just outside them. For atmosphere, Spirit of the Knights Boutique Hotel, a small house beneath the ramparts, and the kitchenette studios at Domus Studios, a minute from the Street of the Knights, put you inside the medieval town. For an easy base with a short walk to the gates, RodosRooms in Neochori is a modern option. Whichever you choose, book early for summer and check what is open if you travel between November and March.
Practical tips
Wear shoes with grip for the cobbles, bring a hat and water for the open sites at Kameiros and Lindos, and carry a light jacket for evenings on the hilltops. Restaurants are rarely fully booked outside summer, but it is worth reserving for Lindos in the high season. Start each day early: you will beat the heat and the crowds, and you will have time for the sunset stops that make the evening special.
