The Mercado Modelo is Salvador's classic place to buy souvenirs. It occupies the former Customs House, or Casa da Alfândega, on the Praça Visconde de Cayru in the Comércio district, right at the foot of the Lacerda Elevator. The market opened in 1912 as a food supply centre, and after a fire destroyed its first building in 1969 it moved into the old customs house in 1971, which is protected as national heritage. Today it is a maze of small shops selling handicrafts and typical Bahian products: leather goods, wooden carvings, lace, ceramics, musical instruments such as berimbaus, spices, hot sauces and the colourful fitas associated with Bonfim. There are also restaurants and snack stalls, and the upper floor has views over the harbour.
Treat it as a relaxed browse rather than a serious shopping trip. Prices are not fixed in most shops, and polite bargaining is normal, so ask the price, compare a few stalls and do not feel pressured. Quality varies, so look closely at stitching, wood and finishes before you buy.
If you want an instrument or a larger piece, ask about shipping, and keep receipts for anything you plan to bring through customs. The market is a good place to try Bahian snacks such as acarajé and cold coconut water, and the restaurants offer moqueca and regional dishes with a harbour outlook.
According to the city's tourism portal, the market keeps weekday and Saturday hours, with a shorter day on Saturday, and no Sunday hours are given, so confirm current hours before you go. The market has gone through renovations and temporary arrangements over the years, so it is wise to check locally that all areas are open on the day of your visit. Visit in the morning for fewer crowds, and avoid cruise-ship days if you dislike busy aisles.
Keep your belongings secure, as in any busy market, carry small notes for purchases and watch the cruise-port crowds that sometimes fill the area. The surrounding Comércio district is a working business area that is much quieter in the evening, so plan to leave before dark. Allow an hour or two. The market pairs naturally with a ride on the Lacerda Elevator to Pelourinho, and the two together make an easy half-day circuit that starts at the water and ends in the old town.
What to expect
The experience
A covered market of small craft shops, snack stalls and restaurants in a heritage building by the harbour.
Best time
Weekday mornings for lighter crowds, and earlier on Saturdays when hours are shorter.
How long
One to two hours is enough for a browse, a snack and the harbour view.
Tips
Bargain politely, check quality before buying, carry small notes, keep bags close and confirm hours before you go.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Souvenir shopping, Bahian snacks and a quick look at the harbour next to the Lacerda Elevator.
- Families
- Children like the colours and the instruments, but the aisles are crowded and narrow.
- Couples
- Pick a handmade keepsake, share an acarajé and take the elevator up for the view.
- Pair with
- The Lacerda Elevator and an afternoon in Pelourinho.
- Time needed
- One to two hours, depending on how much you shop.
Good questions
What can I buy at the Mercado Modelo?+
Typical buys include leather goods, wood carvings, lace, ceramics, berimbau instruments, spices and ribbons. Quality varies, so inspect items before you pay.
Can I bargain?+
Polite bargaining is normal in most shops. Ask the price, compare a few stalls and be ready to walk away.
What are the opening hours?+
The city's tourism portal gives weekday and Saturday hours, with a shorter Saturday. Confirm current hours locally before you go, since they can change on holidays.
Is there food at the market?+
Yes, there are snack stalls and restaurants serving Bahian dishes such as moqueca, plus drinks and coconut water.
How do I get to Pelourinho from here?+
Take the Lacerda Elevator beside the market, which lifts you to the historic centre in less than a minute.
