Rio Vermelho, Salvador

Rio Vermelho is the bohemian heart of Salvador, a seaside neighbourhood south of Barra that locals visit for food, drink and music far more than for sightseeing. It began as a fishing colony, and the name is said to come from a slaughterhouse whose waste once reddened the Lucaia River. Today it is one of the liveliest districts in the city, with a dense mix of bars, restaurants, small theatres and sea-facing terraces, and it is the place where the city's writers, artists and students have long gathered. The neighbourhood is relaxed by day and electric at night, and it is the best answer to the question of where to go for an evening out. The tourism portal describes a wide range of venues, from rooftop restaurants serving modern Bahian cooking and sea-facing bars attached to local breweries to seafood restaurants, craft beer bars, nightspots with DJs and live music, a stand-up comedy house and an arts venue with music, theatre and exhibitions. Traditional acarajé stalls give the area its flavour, and the surrounding streets are good for walking between stops. Venues open, close and change hands, so treat any name as an example and follow your instincts and local advice, but the atmosphere is reliable: busy sidewalks, music from several directions and tables spilling onto the pavement.

Rio Vermelho is most famous for the festival of Iemanjá, the Queen of the Sea, which takes place every year on 2 February. On that day the streets and the sea fill with offerings of flowers, perfume and small boats, as worshippers and visitors honour the orixá of the ocean, and the whole neighbourhood becomes a party. It is one of the great popular festivals of Brazil and a powerful sight, but it is crowded and you should plan your stay, transport and belongings carefully if you want to attend.

Outside the festival the area is calmer, though still lively in the evenings, and the seafront gives a pleasant place for a sunset drink. A good plan is to arrive in the late afternoon, walk the sea-facing streets, stop at an acarajé stall and a bar with a view and then choose a place for dinner. Later in the evening you can move to a live music venue or a bar with a dance floor.

The district suits groups, couples and solo travellers alike, and many of its restaurants serve everything from traditional Bahian dishes to seafood and international cooking. Hotel Catharina Paraguaçu is a convenient base for those who want to stay in the district. Travel sensibly. Rio Vermelho is busy and popular, but it is a nightlife district, so keep your phone and wallet out of sight in crowds, drink in moderation and use a ride-hailing car or taxi to come and go rather than walking long stretches late at night.

Streets are often steep and busy on weekends, and the district is far quieter on weekday mornings, so go in the evening for the atmosphere. It is a short car ride from Barra and a longer one from the historic centre, and it pairs well with a day at Itapuã or a Bahian cooking class.