Sapporo is a city that works well when the weather is poor. Long winters, early darkness and summer rain mean locals have built a good set of indoor and evening pleasures, and visitors can use them to fill a trip. This guide collects the best ideas for wet days and for the hours after dark.
Get the city from above
The night view over Sapporo is one of its best attractions. The JR Tower T38 observation deck sits on the 38th floor above the station and looks over the grid of streets, with the lights of Susukino to the south. The Sapporo TV Tower, at the east end of Odori Park, gives a lower and closer view, with the illuminated park stretching below. Mt. Moiwa is the grand option: a ropeway and a small car take you to a summit viewpoint known for one of Japan's celebrated night views. Clear evenings are best, and winter air is often sharp and crisp. Dress warmly for the summit, where it is colder and windier than in the city.
Eat late
Sapporo has a strong late-night food culture. Susukino is the centre, with ramen counters that serve until the early hours, izakaya with grilled skewers and fresh seafood, and small bars tucked into upper floors. A guided izakaya and street food tour is a good way to learn the neighbourhood on your first evening, and a ramen-making class is a fun indoor activity for a wet afternoon. Nijo Market is best in the morning for seafood bowls, so keep it for a day when you are up early. Local specialities worth seeking out include miso ramen, soup curry, grilled lamb and seafood from the Sea of Japan and Pacific coasts.
Beer, indoors
The Sapporo Beer Museum is a perfect wet-day choice. The brick brewery buildings hold exhibits on the history of the beer, and a tasting counter at the end lets adults sample the range. Allow a couple of hours, and note that the premium guided tour is in Japanese and must be reserved. Craft beer bars in the centre offer more choice in the evening.
Soak
Hot springs are the natural answer to cold, wet weather. Jozankei, a short bus ride southwest of the city, is the most popular hot-spring town, with day-use baths and hotels, riverside walks and a scenic valley. Several hotels in the city, including those with rooftop or top-floor baths, offer a hot-spring soak without leaving the centre. Check the rules about tattoos, since some baths restrict entry, and take a small towel.
Underground and under cover
Pedestrian passages link Sapporo Station, Odori and Susukino, so you can walk the length of the centre without going outside. The routes are lined with shops, cafes and restaurants, and they give you a way to see a lot of the city in a snowstorm. Department stores and the station complex hold food halls, shops and bookstores. Allow time for browsing, because the shopping is a pleasure in itself.
Indoor sights
AOAO SAPPORO is a compact aquarium in the centre, good for an hour. Shiroi Koibito Park has indoor exhibits and a factory viewing area, and it works well on a damp day. The Historical Village of Hokkaido has a mix of indoor and outdoor buildings and is best in drier weather, but its large reconstructed buildings give shelter. The Hokkaido Shrine is outdoors and calm, and a short visit in light snow is memorable.
Photography after dark
The Odori Park illuminations in winter and the lights of Susukino make good subjects. Bring a tripod or rest your camera on a wall, and keep spare batteries warm in an inner pocket, as the cold drains them quickly. A local photo walk can help you find the best spots.
Planning notes
Check opening hours, since many attractions close early in winter, and arrive before dusk for viewpoints. Have a flexible plan: when the weather turns, swap an outdoor day for an indoor one. Keep a day in reserve for a hot spring, and carry a small umbrella or a waterproof jacket from spring to autumn.
Where to stay
A hotel near Odori or Susukino puts the night views, late food and underground passages at your door, which makes the whole city easier on a wet or snowy day.
