Montepulciano sits on a long ridge between the Val d'Orcia and the Val di Chiana, and its single main street climbs from the gate to Piazza Grande at the top. The square holds the Gothic travertine Palazzo Comunale, topped by a crenellated tower that visitors can climb by internal stairs for views across both valleys. Beside it stands the well of the Griffins and Lions, designed by Antonio da Sangallo, and the Civic Museum in the fourteenth-century Palazzo Neri Orselli. The town is also the home of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, one of Italy's best known red wines, which is aged in historic cellars cut into the tuff beneath the Renaissance buildings. Wandering is free, and the town rewards a slow afternoon.
What to see
The cathedral, built between 1586 and 1680, has an unfinished facade and works by Taddeo di Bartolo and Andrea della Robbia. The church of Sant'Agostino was begun in 1285 and holds a fifteenth-century wooden crucifix. Just outside the walls stands the Church of San Biagio, a Renaissance temple designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder and built between 1518 and 1548, with a central dome and one of its two planned bell towers. The Medici Fortress, first built in 1261, now hosts exhibitions.
Wine and food
The historic cellars lie below the palaces of the old town, with brick vaults in tunnels cut into tuff. Many are open for tastings, and some require a booking, so ask at the tourist office or plan a visit with a producer. The typical dish is pici, a thick hand-rolled pasta, served with local pecorino cheese, best enjoyed in a town tavern with a glass of Vino Nobile. In the second half of the year the town is quieter, and some restaurants close one day a week.
Getting there and planning
The town is a car or tour trip from Siena, and it is about fifteen kilometres from Pienza, which makes a natural pair. The streets are steep, so wear good shoes, and park outside the upper town and walk. The Passeggiata Poliziana, a walkway of about two hundred metres beneath the town walls, has long views toward Cortona, Chiusi and Lake Trasimeno. Events such as the Bravio delle Botti barrel race on the last Sunday of August fall outside the quiet season.
What to expect
The experience
A free self-guided walk along the town's main street to Piazza Grande, with optional paid visits to the Palazzo Comunale tower, the museum and the wine cellars.
Best time
Late morning for the wine cellars and late afternoon for the light on the valleys.
How long
Three hours covers the main street, the square and a tasting, and a full afternoon allows the cellars and San Biagio.
Tips
Wear shoes for steep streets, book cellar tastings where required, park outside the upper town, and check that your lunch restaurant is open that day.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Wine lovers and travellers who want a less crowded hill town with big views.
- Families
- Children can enjoy the tower climb and the open squares, but tastings are for adults.
- Couples
- Combine a cellar tasting with a walk along the Passeggiata Poliziana at sunset.
- Pair with
- Pienza, the Val d'Orcia and Montalcino.
- Time needed
- Half a day, or a full day with a long lunch.
Good questions
What is Montepulciano known for?+
It is known for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a prestigious red wine, and for its Renaissance squares and palaces. The town sits on a ridge with views over two valleys.
Can I climb the tower?+
Yes, the tower of the Palazzo Comunale can be climbed by internal stairs, with views toward the Val di Chiana and the Val d'Orcia. Check the current hours at the town hall.
Are the wine cellars open to visitors?+
Many historic cellars offer tastings, and some require a booking. Ask at the tourist office or arrange a visit with a producer.
How far is Montepulciano from Pienza?+
It is about fifteen kilometres, so the two towns pair well on one day. A car makes it easy.
What is San Biagio?+
It is a Renaissance church by Antonio da Sangallo the Elder, built between 1518 and 1548, just outside the town. It has a central dome and one finished bell tower.
