Piazza del Campo is the heart of Siena and one of the most admired squares in Italy. It is shaped like a shell divided into nine sections, a nod to the Nine Lords who ruled the city at the end of the thirteenth century, and its brick paving slopes down toward the Palazzo Pubblico and the tall Torre del Mangia. The square began as a green space with a market, and today it serves as the city's living room, where locals meet, students sit on the pavement and visitors linger over coffee. Nothing is charged for entry. The Fonte Gaia fountain stands on the opposite side from the palace, and its name is said to recall the joy of the Sienese when water first arrived through the underground Bottini aqueduct.
The Palio
Twice a year, on 2 July and 16 August, the square becomes a racetrack. The paving is covered with a layer of earth, a mix of tuff and sand, and horses ridden by jockeys from the city's districts, called contrade, race around the shell. On the other days of the year there is no race, and the square is calm, with its shape easier to appreciate outside the crowds of summer.
What to look at
The Palazzo Pubblico and its tower dominate one side, the Fonte Gaia is a nineteenth-century copy of the fifteenth-century original by Jacopo della Quercia, and some of the original statues are kept inside the Santa Maria della Scala museum. Look up at the long curve of palaces around the edge, which still follow the shell shape. The best way to see the square is to sit on the slope, which many people do, or to take a table at one of the cafes ringing the edge, where a drink costs more than elsewhere in town.
Practical advice
The square is open at all hours and always free, so it works as a first and a last stop. Late afternoon is lovely in the cooler months, with warm light on the brick and the tower. Pickpockets work crowded squares in Italy, so keep bags closed. If you want to climb the tower or see the museum, the entrances are on the palace side of the square.
What to expect
The experience
An open public square you can enter at any time, with a gently sloping shell-shaped floor, cafes around the rim and the Palazzo Pubblico and tower on the low side.
Best time
Visit in late afternoon for warm light and again after dark, when the square is quiet and the tower is lit.
How long
Half an hour is enough for a first look, and an hour or two suits a coffee and some people watching.
Tips
Sit on the slope rather than at a cafe table if you are on a budget, keep bags closed in busy spells, and pair the square with a visit to the palace or tower.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Everyone, as the natural starting and ending point of any day in Siena.
- Families
- The open space is easy for children, and the slope makes a good spot to rest while adults enjoy the view.
- Couples
- Sit on the brick at dusk with a drink and watch the tower and the sky change colour.
- Pair with
- The Palazzo Pubblico and Torre del Mangia, Siena Cathedral and the food streets around the square.
- Time needed
- One hour with a coffee, longer if you include the palace and tower.
Good questions
Is Piazza del Campo free?+
Yes, you can enter the square at any hour at no cost. Tickets are only needed for the palace museum and the tower.
When is the Palio held?+
The Palio races take place on 2 July and 16 August each year. The square is covered with earth for the race and the contrade compete.
Why is the square shaped like a shell?+
It is divided into nine sections in memory of the Nine Lords who governed Siena at the end of the thirteenth century. The slope leads down to the Palazzo Pubblico.
What is the Fonte Gaia?+
It is the fountain on the opposite side of the square from the palace, a nineteenth-century copy of the fifteenth-century original by Jacopo della Quercia. Some of the original statues are in the Santa Maria della Scala museum.
Is it worth coming back in the evening?+
Yes, the square is quieter after dark and the brick and tower are well lit. It is also easier to find a spot on the slope.
