Ano Poli, the Upper Town, is the part of Thessaloniki that escaped the great fire of 1917, and it is the place to go for a quieter, older city. The tourism board calls it the balcony of Thessaloniki, and the description fits: from the lanes at the top of the hill you look out over the rooftops to the bay and, on a clear day, towards Mount Olympus. The district climbs from the centre towards the city walls, which follow the ridge and are among the most visible survivors of the Byzantine city. Along the way you pass small churches, an Ottoman imaret, old wooden houses and quiet courtyards, and the Trigonion Tower and the Heptapyrgion fortress, known in Ottoman times as Yedi Koule, sit in the upper part of the walls. It is a place for an unhurried walk rather than a ticketed visit, with cafes and tavernas where you can stop. Come for the architecture, the views and the sunset.
How it works
It is a neighbourhood, so there is no ticket and no single entrance. The tourism board suggests starting uphill from the centre around Agiou Dimitriou Street and walking up through the lanes, with the walls accompanying you on the route. Some of the monuments inside the district, such as the fortress and certain churches, have their own opening hours and entry rules, so check them before you plan to go inside. The streets themselves are open at all times, though they are quieter after dark.
What to expect
Cobbled lanes, steps and hills, so the walk is steeper than anything in the centre, and the signs are not always clear, which is part of the charm. Several small churches and monuments lie along the way, including Saint Catherine, Agios Nikolaos Orphanos, the Archangels and the Alatza Imaret mosque, and some are part of the UNESCO group of early Christian and Byzantine monuments of the city. The Trigonion Tower and the Heptapyrgion are the best places to watch the sun go down over the bay.
Making the most of it
Take a taxi or bus to the top and walk down, if you want the easy version, and wear shoes with grip, since cobbles are slippery when wet. Go in the late afternoon and stay for sunset, then eat at a taverna in the district before heading back. Keep your visit to a couple of hours, and combine it with the Rotunda and Agios Dimitrios on the way up, because both sit between the centre and the Upper Town.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided uphill walk through old lanes, past small churches and along the Byzantine walls to viewpoints over the bay.
Best time
Late afternoon through sunset, when the light is soft and the views are best.
How long
About two hours with stops.
Tips
Wear shoes with grip for the cobbles, and consider taking a taxi up and walking down.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Couples, photographers and anyone who wants a quieter, older side of the city.
- Families
- Fine for children who like to climb, but the steps and lanes are not buggy-friendly.
- Couples
- A sunset walk and a taverna dinner in the lanes.
- Pair with
- The Rotunda, Agios Dimitrios and a seafront walk the next morning.
- Time needed
- Two hours, or an evening with dinner.
Good questions
What is Ano Poli?+
It is the Upper Town, the old hillside quarter above the centre, with cobbled lanes, small churches and the Byzantine walls. The tourism board calls it the balcony of Thessaloniki.
How do I get there?+
Walk uphill from the centre, for example from Agiou Dimitriou Street, or take a taxi or bus to the top and walk down.
Where are the best sunset views?+
The Trigonion Tower and the higher fortress, the Heptapyrgion, are the places the tourism board points to for sunset over the bay.
Is it free?+
Walking the district is free. Some monuments inside it have their own opening hours and entry rules, so check before you go.
Is it safe to walk at night?+
The lanes are quiet after dark, so most visitors go in the late afternoon and take a taxi back after dinner.
