Alcazar of Toledo

You cannot miss the Alcazar. Its four corner towers and strict, pale facade sit on the highest point of the old city and anchor almost every postcard view. The site has held a Roman palace, a Visigothic and Moorish fortress, and the residence of Castilian kings, and the building you see today owes most of its look to the 1530s, when Emperor Charles V had architects Alonso de Covarrubias and later Juan de Herrera give it a Renaissance face. It has been burned, bombarded and rebuilt more than once, most famously during the siege of 1936 at the start of the Spanish Civil War, when its defenders held out for weeks in the cellars while the upper floors were reduced to rubble. After careful rebuilding it now houses the Army Museum, a large, well-organized collection that walks through centuries of Spanish military history, from medieval arms and armor through the age of empire to the modern era. Even if uniforms and cannon are not your passion, the building is worth the visit for the cool Renaissance courtyard, the monumental staircase, and the views from the upper terraces back across the red rooftops to the cathedral spire.

The museum is organized chronologically and is easier than it looks. Begin on the lower floors, where early weapons, banners and the story of the Reconquista set the scene, then follow the route up through the Habsburg period, with helmets, swords, flags and large-scale models of famous battles. The collection includes a good deal of armor and a long run of uniforms, and texts are available in several languages, though audio guides help if the scale of the building feels overwhelming.

Look for the display recording the siege itself; it is sober, specific and, whatever your politics, a reminder of how recently the walls were blown apart.

Space is generous, so even on a busy day the building feels navigable, and families will find the large models and weapons engaging for older children. The sloping approach from Plaza de Zocodover is part of the experience: you climb a short, steep street to a wide forecourt, with the shadow of the towers growing as you reach the entrance.

Bag checks and metal detectors are in place, so travel light. The museum keeps regular weekly closing days and varied opening hours across seasons, so look up the schedule before you plan the day around it.

Combine the Alcazar with the Plaza de Zocodover, where you can buy the town's famous marzipan, and with a walk down to the Puerta del Sol or the cathedral. The terrace views are particularly good in late afternoon, when the stone turns honey colored and the Tagus gorge below catches the light.

Allow around two hours for a thorough visit. If you only have time for a quick look, focus on the courtyard, the main staircase, and the upper floors with the panoramic windows; that gives you the essence of the building in under an hour.