Aranjuez Royal Palace

About an hour from Toledo by road, Aranjuez is the town where the Spanish court came to escape Madrid's heat in spring. Its Royal Palace, begun under Philip II and completed in a more ornate Bourbon style in the eighteenth century, sits on the banks of the Tagus within a landscape of gardens, avenues and fountains that earned a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list. A guided tour leads through the state rooms, including the Porcelain Cabinet, a room covered in intricately modeled china tiles; the throne room; the royal apartments; and the Hall of Mirrors. Outside, formal parterres, tree-lined walks and the Garden of the Island invite lingering. The town is also known for its strawberries and asparagus in season, so food and a stroll are an easy addition. For travelers based in Toledo who have an extra day, Aranjuez is an unusually graceful change of pace from the medieval lanes.

The palace makes sense as a contrast to Toledo. Where Toledo is dense, dark and defensive, Aranjuez is open, formal and decorative, a place designed for leisure. The tour typically covers a route through the main floor, and guides explain the roles of the rooms and the habits of the royal families who lived here. The Porcelain Cabinet is the highlight, a room whose walls and ceiling are covered in colorful porcelain panels depicting chinoiserie scenes, made at the royal factory in the eighteenth century.

Gardens are free to enter in part and extend for kilometers along the river. The Parterre, near the palace, is the most formal, with clipped hedges and fountains; the Island Garden is shadier, with water features and plenty of benches. In spring and summer, the avenues of old trees provide welcome shade. Bring comfortable shoes, because distances are larger than they look on a map.

Guided visits are conducted in several languages. Combine the palace with lunch in town, where restaurants serve seasonal produce and local dishes, and allow around half a day in total. It is an easy way to add a second World Heritage setting to a trip centered on Toledo.

If you have time after the palace, explore the town itself. Its grid of straight streets, laid out in the eighteenth century, contrasts with Toledo's tangle, and the main plaza has cafes where you can sample local dishes. In season, strawberries and asparagus appear on many menus, and the town is known for them.

Consider renting a bike or taking the small tourist train through the gardens if you want to cover more ground. The royal barge museum and the Prince's Garden, with its pavilions and river views, make good additions when the weather is fine, but leave the palace for earlier in the day when the lines are shortest.