Iekei Ramen in Yokohama

Iekei ramen is Yokohama's own contribution to the ramen world. It emerged in the 1970s in the Isogo area and quickly spread across Kanagawa and beyond. The style is recognisable at once: a cloudy broth made from pork bones and soy sauce, thick and slightly chewy straight noodles, a sheet of nori, spinach and slices of chashu pork. It is often eaten with a bowl of white rice on the side, and at most shops you can adjust the firmness of the noodles, the richness of the soup and the amount of oil. For a food-focused visit to Yokohama, a tasting tour is the best way to understand why locals are so loyal to it.

A typical iekei tour starts at a station near several well-regarded shops, which is why tours offer multiple starting areas. A local guide explains the order, the vocabulary and the table etiquette, then takes you to two or three shops for small portions or a full bowl at the main stop. You learn how to use ticket machines, how to say the three adjustments in Japanese, and how to add the free extras on the table such as garlic, ginger and chilli.

Guides often add stories about the ramen scene and the history of the style, and some tours visit a small shop that is hard to find on your own.

The tour is a good option for travellers who find ramen shops intimidating. Menus are in Japanese, seats are tight, and the rhythm is fast, so having someone handle the ordering and the explanations makes the experience more fun. If you have dietary restrictions, ask the operator in advance, because the broth is pork-based and options for vegetarians or people avoiding pork are limited. Tours are generally small groups, with a pace designed for people who want to sample rather than stuff themselves.

If you prefer to go alone, look for the shops near the main stations and follow a simple rule: order the standard bowl first, then adjust firmness and oil on a second visit. Lunchtime queues form at popular shops, and some close in the afternoon, so go at an off-peak hour. Cash is common in ramen shops, though ticket machines increasingly accept cards. Slurping is polite, and finishing the bowl is the best compliment. Pair the tour with the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum or the Cup Noodles Museum for a whole day of noodle exploration.

Some tips for ordering on your own: use the ticket machine to choose a standard bowl, hand the ticket to the staff, then say your preferences for firmness, flavour and oil, usually as soft, normal or hard, light, normal or rich. Add rice for the traditional pairing and use the table seasonings sparingly at first. Regular customers often finish with a splash of vinegar or a spoonful of garlic, and rice dipped into the leftover broth is considered a treat.

Eating several bowls in a day is easier than it sounds if you share and keep portions small, and a walk between shops helps.

Wear clothes you do not mind splashing, because rich broth and fast slurping can be messy, and keep a pack of tissues nearby.