Three days is the sweet spot for Accra. It is long enough to see the independence sights, wander the old quarters and markets and make the long trip to the castles of the coast, and short enough that you will not run out of energy in the heat. The plan below puts the sights in an order that respects traffic and the weather, with the hardest travel on the last day when you know the city a little better.
Day one: the independence trail
Start early at the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, where the mausoleum and museum tell the story of Ghana's first president and of the declaration of independence in 1957. Allow an hour and a half. From there it is a short ride to Independence Square and the Black Star Gate, the vast parade ground where national celebrations are held. Keep your camera lowered near the soldiers guarding the arch unless they say otherwise. After lunch, spend an hour or two at the National Museum of Ghana on Barnes Road for gold weights, Asante stools and the sculpture garden, then finish with the Accra Arts Centre, which is close to the memorial park, where you can browse crafts and practise your bargaining. If energy remains, the W.E.B. Du Bois Centre is worth adding, but confirm that it is open before you go.
Day two: the old city, the markets and the sea
Begin in Jamestown, the old Ga fishing quarter, while the harbour is busy and the light is soft. Walk the lanes with a local guide, look at the murals and the fishing canoes, and see James Fort and the lighthouse from outside, since access to the fort can be restricted. Next, take a ride to Makola Market for the full sensory overload of food, cloth, spices and household goods. A guided walk makes it far more comfortable, and the market is best before noon. Early afternoon is the time for a long lunch in Osu, the lively neighbourhood of cafes and restaurants, ideally with a stroll down Oxford Street. If you want to cook what you eat, the home cooking class in Osu fits this day nicely. Finish at Labadi Beach for the sunset and an evening of live music and street food, or at the Artists Alliance Gallery if you prefer something calmer.
Day three: the castles and the forest
Leave early for the long drive west to the Central Region. The Cape Coast, Elmina and Kakum day trip is the efficient option, taking in Cape Coast Castle, Elmina Castle and the Kakum canopy walk in a single day of eleven to fifteen hours. Travel is about three hours each way, so go with a guide and a driver, and book a few days ahead. The castles are sober places of remembrance, and the canopy walk is a light, high-up contrast. If you want more depth, swap this for the Assin Manso Slave River and Cape Coast Castle tour, or consider staying a night in Cape Coast.
Where to base yourself
For this itinerary the central Ridge and North Ridge districts are the most convenient, with the Kempinski, the Mövenpick Ambassador and the Alisa Hotel North Ridge all within a few minutes of the main sights. Accra City Hotel on Barnes Road is the value choice and stands on the same road as the National Museum. If your flight is very early or late, the Marriott and The Palms in Airport City are only minutes from the terminal.
Practical notes
Ride-hail apps such as Uber and Bolt are the simplest way to move around, and you should confirm the fare before getting into a taxi without a meter. Plan outdoor sights for the morning and keep the middle of the day for museums, lunch and rest. Ghana uses the cedi, and cash is useful for markets, small entrance fees and tips. Dress modestly at memorial sites and castles, ask before photographing people and carry water everywhere.
If you have less or more time
With two days, combine the first two days and add the castles as a separate early start. With four, add the Aburi Botanical Gardens in the hills and a slower evening at Labadi. With five, add the Shai Hills safari and the Lake Volta cruise, which are covered in the guide to day trips. However long you stay, keep the first morning light and the last evening free, because Accra rewards slow wandering as much as ticking off sights.
