Cozido das Furnas is the dish that tells you where you are. In the Furnas valley the ground is hot from volcanic steam, and for generations the villagers have cooked their stew by burying pots in it. The ingredients go into a big pot in layers, with no added water, only the juices released by the food itself. Pork, beef, chicken, cabbage, kale, potatoes, yam and carrots are packed in order, followed by chorizo and blood sausage wrapped in kale, and the pot is lowered into a hole near the lake shore or the fumaroles and covered with earth. It cooks very slowly, for around six hours. When it is lifted out, the meat is tender, the vegetables are rich. It is hearty, salty and generous, and it is best eaten at midday with a table of friends. Many Furnas restaurants serve it, often on a pre-order basis.
Seeing the pots going into the ground is half the fun. The area around the fumaroles, called the Caldeiras, is full of steaming vents, bubbling mud and sulphur-scented air, and cooks bury their pots in the warm ground. Depending on the time of day, you may see pots being lowered or hauled out. Even if you do not eat cozido, the sight is worth the walk, and the smell of sulphur is something you will remember. Wear shoes that can handle damp ground, and keep a safe distance from vents and hot mud.
Eating it
Restaurants in Furnas typically serve cozido at lunch, some on request in advance and some as a daily dish, so ask your hotel to reserve a portion for you. It is filling, so one portion often feeds a hungry visitor and a small appetite can share. Pair it with a local wine or a simple beer, and finish with a light dessert such as a pineapple slice or a local sweet pastry. Vegetarian travellers should ask about alternatives, because the traditional dish is meat-heavy.
Alternatives and planning
There is also an evening version, where a thermal bath at Poça da Dona Beija is followed by a cozido dinner, a good plan in low season when daylight is short. Guided day tours of Furnas usually include a cozido lunch. If you are driving yourself, combine lunch with the lake, the fumaroles and Terra Nostra for a classic Furnas day, and arrive hungry.
What to expect
The experience
A walk among the steaming fumaroles in Furnas, followed by a sit-down lunch of the stew at a local restaurant.
Best time
Lunchtime is the classic moment, when pots are lifted from the ground; evenings work for the dinner version after a thermal bath.
How long
About an hour at the vents and an hour or more for the meal.
Tips
Ask your hotel to reserve cozido in advance, stay behind barriers at the vents and wear shoes that cope with damp ground.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Food lovers who want a meal with a story.
- Families
- Children usually enjoy the steaming ground, but the dish is rich, so keep a simpler option in mind.
- Couples
- A long lunch followed by an afternoon soak in the thermal pool is a classic Furnas pairing.
- Pair with
- Terra Nostra Park, the Furnas lake and Poça da Dona Beija.
- Time needed
- Allow two hours for the vents and the meal together.
Good questions
How is cozido das Furnas cooked?+
The pot is packed with meat and vegetables, with no added water, then buried in ground heated by volcanic steam. It cooks slowly for around six hours.
What is in it?+
Pork, beef, chicken, cabbage, kale, potatoes, yam and carrots, plus chorizo and blood sausage. Salt is the main seasoning.
Do I need to reserve?+
Often yes. Many restaurants ask for a pre-order, so ask your hotel or the restaurant the day before.
Can vegetarians eat it?+
The traditional dish is meat-based. Ask restaurants in advance about vegetable alternatives or choose another local dish.
Is it only a lunch dish?+
Lunch is traditional, but some evening experiences combine a thermal bath with a cozido dinner, which suits the shorter days of low season.
