Sete Cidades is the sight that most people picture when they think of São Miguel. The old volcano collapsed into a huge caldera, and the floor of that crater now holds two lakes that sit side by side, the Lagoa Azul and the Lagoa Verde, joined by a narrow strait. Local legend says they were formed from the tears of a shepherd and a princess who shared a forbidden love, one with blue eyes and one with green, and on a clear day the colours really do look different from each other. The classic photograph is taken from the Vista do Rei lookout on the crater rim, named after King Carlos and Queen Amélia, who visited the island in 1901. The area is a protected landscape and is counted among the seven natural wonders of Portugal. Down on the crater floor there is a small village with a white neo-Gothic church, a lakeside path and quiet roads for walking or cycling. It is an easy half-day from Ponta Delgada, or a full day if you add the west coast.
Weather is the big variable. The crater rim is high, and clouds often settle into the bowl, so the lakes can be hidden one hour and brilliant the next. Locals will tell you to wait twenty minutes, and it often works. Because the climate changes so fast, the best plan is flexible: look at the sky in the morning, pick a day when the west is clear, and keep a spare day in your schedule if your trip is short.
The colours are strongest when the sun is high and the sky is blue; on grey days the lakes look dark and moody, which has its own beauty.
There are several ways to see it. A guided half-day or full-day tour handles the driving, the viewpoints and the timing, and a small-group day tour that adds the village, the fishing port of Capelas and the lava pools at Mosteiros makes for an easy full day without a rental car. If you prefer to go independently, the road from Ponta Delgada takes around half an hour, there are several viewpoints along the rim, and the walk down to the village and along the shore is a pleasant change from the car.
Cyclists, e-bike riders and hikers use the rim and lake trails, and the lakeside path is flat and pushchair friendly.
Practical points
Bring layers, since the rim is windy and cool even on warm days, and wear shoes you do not mind getting damp if you walk. In low season, from November to March, there are far fewer visitors, the light is dramatic and the lakes are quiet, but showers are frequent.
In summer the viewpoints and car parks are busier, so arrive early or late. Eat in the village or in Mosteiros rather than packing a picnic into a wet crater, and combine this with Lagoa do Fogo if you want a second big volcano view in the same day.
What to expect
The experience
A guided day by minivan or a self-drive visit: viewpoints on the crater rim, the village on the lake shore and, on the full-day tour, the port of Capelas and the coast at Mosteiros.
Best time
Clear mornings give the strongest colours, and early or late hours avoid the tour groups. Low season is quiet but showery, and summer is the busiest.
How long
About two to three hours for the rim and village; the full-day guided tour runs about eight hours with a lunch stop.
Tips
Pack layers and a rain jacket, check the sky before you set off, and keep a flexible day. Lunch is usually not included on the guided day, so plan to pay for it locally.
Quick picks
- Best for
- First-timers who want the single most famous view on the island.
- Families
- Easy viewpoints, a flat lakeside path and a village with a playground and cafés make it a gentle outing for children.
- Couples
- Go early for the quietest light at Vista do Rei, then wander down to the shore for a slow lunch in the village.
- Pair with
- Lagoa do Fogo for a second crater, and the hot spring pool at Ponta da Ferraria on the west coast.
- Time needed
- Half a day at minimum; a full day if you add Mosteiros and Capelas.
Good questions
Why are the two lakes different colours?+
They are joined but sit in different parts of the crater, and the colours depend on the sky, the light and what grows around and in them. Legend gives a more romantic answer, a shepherd and a princess with blue and green eyes.
What is the best viewpoint?+
Vista do Rei on the crater rim is the classic spot and the easiest to reach. Other viewpoints along the rim road give different angles, so it is worth stopping at two or three.
Can I do it without a car?+
Yes. A guided day tour by minivan covers the main viewpoints, the village and the west coast, and picks up from selected hotels in Ponta Delgada.
Is it worth going if it is cloudy?+
Often yes, because clouds can clear in minutes, but there is no guarantee. If you only have one day, check the forecast in the morning and choose the clearest direction.
Can I walk down to the lakes?+
Yes. Trails and paths lead from the rim to the village and along the shore, and the lakeside path is flat. Wear sturdy shoes if the ground is wet.
