Terra Nostra Park is the garden at the centre of Furnas, and the one place on São Miguel where a botanical walk and a hot bath come together. It was created in 1775 by Thomas Hickling, an American merchant, as a place to relax, and over the following centuries the grounds were extended with exotic trees, ferns and camellias. The collection includes about 800 camellia specimens in four areas, some of them over a hundred years old, plus rare species and a famous avenue of ginkgo trees. In the middle of the park is a large thermal pool filled with volcanic spring water at a steady temperature of about 40 degrees. The water is rich in iron and other minerals, which is why it is a rusty orange-brown colour and why it stains pale swimwear. The pool has become the symbol of Furnas, and a dip here after a day of sightseeing is one of the island's classic pleasures. Guests of the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel next door have free access to the grounds and the pool.
What the park offers goes beyond the pool. The gardens are laid out as a gentle walk, with shaded paths, ponds, tree ferns and hothouse plants, and they are lovely in every season. In winter the camellias come into flower, which makes low season a good time to visit, and in summer the shade is a relief. Allow an hour or two for the walk and at least an hour for the pool, and leave time to dry off before moving on, since the air in the valley can be cool.
Practical tips for the bath
The iron-rich water stains permanently, so wear dark swimwear that you do not mind losing, and rinse in cold water as soon as you get out. Leave jewellery in your room, because it can tarnish. Changing rooms and showers are on site. Public opening hours are limited to the daytime, so check the park's own page for current hours and ticket arrangements before you go, and buy tickets ahead in summer when it can be busy. Pregnant visitors should ask a doctor before using any thermal bath.
Where it fits
Furnas is usually seen as a full day, with the lake, the steaming fumaroles and the cozido stew, and Terra Nostra is the relaxing core of that day. A common plan is to see the lake and the fumaroles in the morning, eat lunch, then spend the afternoon in the park.
If you want the pool at its quietest, go late in the day, or combine your visit with an evening soak at Poça da Dona Beija, which opens late. Staying at the hotel beside the park lets you visit outside normal hours.
What to expect
The experience
A self-guided stroll through the historic garden followed by a soak in the large iron-rich thermal pool, with changing rooms and showers on site.
Best time
Late in the day for a quieter pool; winter for camellias in flower. Hot water stays at the same temperature all year.
How long
Two to three hours for the garden and a proper soak.
Tips
Wear dark swimwear, leave jewellery behind, rinse straight after and check the park's page for current opening hours and tickets.
Quick picks
- Best for
- Anyone who wants a hot bath in a garden setting rather than a spa.
- Families
- Children enjoy the ponds and the big pool, but keep them out of the water if they are very young or unwell.
- Couples
- Walk the ginkgo avenue, then soak in the afternoon light as the steam rises.
- Pair with
- The Furnas lake and fumaroles, a cozido lunch and an evening at Poça da Dona Beija.
- Time needed
- Plan an afternoon.
Good questions
Why is the water orange-brown?+
The spring water is rich in iron and other minerals, which colour the pool. The iron stains swimwear, so choose dark clothing.
How hot is the pool?+
It is kept at a steady temperature of about 40 degrees, and it stays the same through the year, which is why a winter visit works just as well.
Do I need to book tickets?+
Tickets are sold through the park's own site, and booking ahead is wise in summer. In low season you can often buy on arrival, but check first.
Is the garden worth visiting without swimming?+
Yes. The camellias, ginkgo avenue, ponds and rare trees make it a fine walk, and many people visit for the garden alone.
Can hotel guests use the park?+
Guests of the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel have free access to the garden and the thermal pool, which is a big perk of staying next door.
